Mt. Abbot (13,704 ft.)

The North Couloir is class 3. The Pacific Crest in this region runs SE -> NW (as it does in most places), and the North Couloir looks like it should be called the Northeast Couloir. But it really is on the north side, and is the largest snow chute when seen approaching from Ruby Lake. A narrower snow chute to the right leads to the Pacific Crest and an interesting Gendarme called the Petit Grifon, but it does not lead to the summit. Follow the North Couloir up until you can climb onto the class 3 rock on the right side, approximately half way up. You should find plenty of cairns to mark the way (although there are a number of class 3 variations) to the ridge. From here, follow the ridge to the summit, noting the point of exit for your return. You should find yourself on an airy class 3 bridge before you find the summit.