Mt. Lyell (13,114 ft.)

The Lyell Glacier route is class 2-3. Follow the John Muir Trail to within about a mile of Donohue Pass. Where the trail crosses to the east side of the stream and begins a steep ascent, leave the trail and stay to the left of the stream. Follow this side canyon up and to the west, climbing benches and ledges on the far west end. The Lyell Glacier will be on the right (to the south), and is broken in two large pieces by a buttress. The west side of the glacier is hidden from view by this buttress. Aim for the base of the buttress and cross onto the west side. Head up to the east ridge of Mt. Lyell about a hundred yards past the buttress, or where the angle seems smallest. Once on the east ridge, follow it to the summit.