The Southeast Glacier route is class 3.
Climb up to the west from Ediza Lake. Secor describes a very complicated
route up through the cliffs below the southeast glacier. A better route (class
2-3) can be found to the left (east) of these cliffs. Climb the easier slope
found here, up and to the right. The easier route avoids heading to the right
too early (where you end up back by the cliffs), but instead waits until the
slope levels out before heading over to the southeast glacier. The glacier
can be climbed straight up the middle to its highest point if you have axe
and crampons. Those without should cross to the right side of the glacier
early (to avoid the steeper slopes) and climb the rocks along the right side
of the glacier. Crampons are easier if you have a choice. Once to the top
of the glacier, you should find an obvious wide (~30 yards) couloir that
heads up the southeast face. A narrower chute to the left is more difficult
and should be avoided unless you enjoy the challenge (class 3-4). The wide
chute is full of loose, possibly wet sand and scree in mid-summer and a chore
to climb. Once above this, it is a class 2 scramble to the summit.