The North Slope is the easiest route, and is mostly class 2. There is
a short class 3 section consisting of loose talus along the way. From the
trailhead the trail follows the right (north) side of the canyon formed by
Red Mountain Creek. It is steep, narrow, and poorly marked, often hot and dry
in the summer months. Water can be found in the creek, but it is a scramble
down to reach it. You are best to carry enough water to reach Red Lake. From
the lake, climb talus, creekbeds, and benches northwest towards peak 3832m.
Follow the creek upwards and to the west to a morraine and permanent snow
field. Climb to the saddle above this, encountering the short class 3 section
just before reaching the ridge. From here it is an easy class 2 scramble south
to the summit. The north summit is the high point.