Continued...
This was a productive day to a lot of mundane summits, mostly cinder cones in
the Cinder Cone Lava Beds area in Mojave National Preserve. Still, I had a fun
day exploring the area, and with extra time picked up a couple of peaks I hadn't
planned on, including a range highpoint. Clouds covered the sky most of the
day, muting the sunrise and most of the photos. Temps, however, were near
ideal with a welcome breeze.
Peak 4,409ft - Peak 4,475ft - Peak 4,511ft - Peak 4,425ft
I had spent the night camped at the start of this four peak loop in the Cinder
Cone Lava Beds, at the end of the driveable portion of a spur road. The old road
continues, but is blocked to vehicle traffic due to the Mojave Wilderness. The
first two summits are located within the Wilderness, but the last two are
outside, in an area with extensive mining in the past and lots of gear and
vehicles left to rust. All four of these peaks are cinder cones, making for
mostly unpleasant climbing, with loose cinders covering .
Up early before sunrise, I followed to the base of the
furthest summit, Peak 4,409ft. I reached shortly before
scheduled sunrise (I didn't really notice a sunrise today), finding the top had
been bulldozed at one time, purpose unknown - do cinder cones have other
valuable minerals hidden in them? I descended to the northeast, aiming for
in that direction. After crossing the flats in-between, I
found the climb of the second peak less tedious, with firmer footing on larger
vocanic rocks. The third summit, , was another mile further
to the northeast, and had from all directions.
Getting off the peak to the southeast was a little tricky as there was
near the base, leaving a precarious drop onto the road
if one didn't choose a line carefully. The last summit was a half a mile to
, with abandoned on the northwest
side. It appears they were mining black cinder from this one. Like Peak 4,511ft,
Peak 4,425ft was a tedious climb with loose slopes. Andy
Smatko had been to the last three of these summits, but I found no sign of his
registers on any of them. Perhaps not surprising, since the mining activity was
still going on after his visits in 1972. I the loop up back
at the Jeep by 8:30a, a good number of peaks for two and half hours, but lacking
in quality.
Peak 4,812ft
This summit is located about 5mi northwest of the first group, in a more
isolated part of the preserve. Bob Sumner and I had been to nearby Club Peak in
2015, but this one, best done in conjunction with it, wasn't on the radar at
the time. Even if
it
had been, it would have been improbable to get Sumner interested -
he really doesn't like "wasting time" on bonus peaks. From the edge of the
Wilderness boundary, it's almost four miles one-way to the summit. There is an
old road that gets within half a mile that I used to make things easier. I
parked at the unmarked junction, found in decent shape, and
followed it to of the mountain. The peak is
volcanic, but not a cinder cone, and the ascent was fairly easy. The summit
lies near the edge of a six mile-long that drops off to the
west. The bluff can be seen prominently from that direction, from both Kelbaker
Rd and Interstate 15. I left here before returning - it was
one of the few summits in the area that Smatko had not visited.
Button Mountain
This one is a short distance from the starting point for Peak 4,812ft. On that
previous trip with Bob Sumner, I'd asked if he wanted to do Button Mountain
since it showed up as the only other named summit in the area. Since it appeared
on no list and in no guidebook, he scoffed at the suggestion. As we were
driving in his Jeep Liberty at the time, I didn't press the issue - I figured
I'd get back here again eventually. The topo map shows several old roads on
this cinder cone, including one that goes to the summit. None of the peak lies
within Wilderness, so I thought it might be a drive-up. I tried the road from
the northwest shown going to the top, but it became undriveable shortly after
leaving the main road. I then used another old road
that worked to get me . There was some lingering snow on
that side, but it did not make the ascent appreciably more difficult. The
did that well enough, but the climb itself took less than
10min to accomplish. A bulldozed path went across , a small
collection of cinder rocks serving as the highpoint.
Beale Mountains HP - Peak 3,891ft
It was not long after 11a when I left Button Mtn in the Jeep driving east and
. My route took me across the west side of Cima Dome and the
site of the 2020 Cima Fire which burned 43,000 acres in the Mojave Wilderness.
The area is home to a vast joshua tree forest that grows best at this 4,000-foot
elevation. Grasses, creosote, brush and 1.3 million were
consumed in the rare desert range fire. Charred remains of the trees and
telephone poles are fresh and . Nothing has yet to
begin regrowing here. The desert will recover, of course, but it will be a slow
process.
The Marl and are found on the southwest side of Cima
Dome. I had been to the Marl Mtns in 2016, but had only discovered the Beale
Mtns afterwards. They are named for Edward Beale, a prominent figure of the Old
West who had a storied life, with successful episodes in the military, politics
and adventure. The range is one of the smallest in the state, less than three
miles in length. There are two summits featured in LoJ, and it was to these I
set my sights as I was driving through the joshua tree forest. I ended up at
a secluded at the base of the range on the northwest
side. From here, it was half a mile to found at
the north end of the range. It took only 30min to reach .
Andy Smatko had recorded an ascent in 1969, but I found no sign of a register,
and unfortunately had forgotten to restock more of my own. The other summit is
located at the south end of the range, connected by a
that would take me an hour and twenty minutes
to . There were two significant and several
smaller ones, but was pleasant for the most part. After
reaching , I descended to ,
dropping into on the western side of the range. I would spent
the last thirty minutes of the outing hiking the sandy wash back up to
and my Jeep.
Peak 4,714ft
This was the last summit I had left in the Cinder Cone Lava Beds, about five
miles west of the Beale Mountains. The shortest approach is from the southeast,
along the Mojave Rd, starting at the (a feature
found on Google Maps). The mailbox and flag were installed in 1983 by off-road
enthusiasts. There are a number of quirky displays in the surrounding desert -
, , and jeep collection,
the first two of which I came upon completely by accident as I was hiking
towards Peak 4,714ft. I didn't find the toy jeep collection, but my research
afterwards suggests it's out there somewhere. The peak lies about a mile from
the mailbox, half the distance across sandy , weaving
through joshua trees and around brush. There is a short
to ascend at the edge of the lava flow, then
to with little of the cinder cone
annoyances. I left at the summit, adding an entry for
Smatko's 1972 visit.
Rocky Ridge
After returning to the Jeep, I spent much of the next hour driving west on
the Mojave Road to Kelbaker Rd, then south on a powerline road to Rocky Ridge
on the east side of . Rocky Ridge is named on the topo
map as a subsidiary ridge rising from the west to meet the more major ridge
running NW-SE, an off-shoot of . From the road, it was
less than a quarter mile to identified by LoJ, though
with less than 100ft of prominence, it isn't much of a summit. Still, it was
odd to find an running most of the distance from
where I parked to the summit. It was after 5p and the sun was getting ready to
set. It came out briefly to the underside of the cloud layer
in a colorful fashion only moments before it set for the evening. I would spend
the night under
with plans to hike out of Jackass Canyon in the morning...
Continued...