Sat, Apr 18, 2009
|
With: | Tom Becht |
Saturday was slated for our Desert Divide, Part II. Part I had been the previous December, though it was originally designed to do both parts in one long day. We came to find that it was not to be taken so lightly and had to abandon the project when only halfway done. In keeping with tradition, we did a bit of underestimation on Part II as well, thinking it would be a much easier day than that first one. So much so that we started out in the morning on an altogether different peak, thinking we could pick up a leftover from the previous day and still finish off the Desert Divide.
Our night had been spent at the same location I'd slept the previous night, at the parking lot south of SR74, the TH for the Cactus Spring Trail we used for Martinez and Sheep. Across the highway was the Pinyon Flat Campground, but it was still closed for the winter season. We were up early, just as it was growing light out around 5:30a. We left my van about a mile west on the highway at the junction of Palm View Drive, and together in Tom's Element headed north through the empty streets of Pinyon Pines. There is an interesting mix of new, expensive homes along with the older rundown variety, the latter making up the majority in this out-of-the-way community.
Somewhere we missed a turn and ended up on the wrong
fork of the dirt road. Our fork started to wander left, or west, away from
Asbestos. Since we found the 4WD roads rough and decidedly unfun, we chose to
simply park the car where we could turn around and start
from there. It's a
short enough peak that a little extra distance couldn't be much trouble.
Indeed, it was pretty trivial, even for an HPS peak. We followed through the
desert scrub around the SE side of Pt. 4,763ft, past
a cow
gully
described in the HPS guide. A set of ducks led up the
gully to the summit plateau, a rocky, undulating region of blocky
false summits
and eventually to the highpoint - taking all of half an hour. The sun had risen
shortly before reaching
the top
at 6:30a, offering us views of San Jacinto to
the northwest, the Desert Divide to
the west,
and the Santa Rosas to
the south.
A benchmark placed in 1939 was embedded nearby.
The register was surprisingly
old for such an easy peak, dating back to 1980. One of the earliest
entries
from 1981 was from Sam Fink and party. Sam was a prominent member of the HPS
who spent many years cutting a trail along the Desert Divide south of Red
Tahquitz, eventually becoming part of the PCT. Having since passed away, it is
always a pleasure to see one of his signatures.
After descending back the same way, we drove back out to the highway, picked up
my van, dropped it off alongside a road west of Rock Point, and together drove
Tom's car up to Tripp Meadow on the west side of the Desert Divide for the
start of the day's main course. We had eight peaks in mind along the way, from
Cone Peak to Rock Point. There was no parking area for the start as we simply
pulled off
the dirt road across from someone's ranch home once we could drive
no further. While the HPS TOPO guide still shows approaches from this area,
only later did we note the warning in the HPS online guide regarding our
approach from the south:
Do not attempt to hike Cone Peak from the south side via the end of Morris Ranch Road. This is the Trail's End Subdivision. They have recently posted all of this property as no trespassing. There is currently no public access from this area!
Oops. We hiked up the road to an unsigned gate
that led to a trail heading up
North Canyon.
Though the creek was dry, it was shady and delightfully cool
in the early morning, and best of all the trail seemed to be heading in the
right direction. When we reached Hot Patch Spring (also dry) we looked for the
trail turning sharply left and traversing up and out of the canyon. This was
not easy as the trail is mostly unused and
heavily overgrown. We lost what
little remnant we were following and found ourselves
wallowing
in the
understory of the oak forest. After some twenty minutes of this thrashing our
way uphill through a gully, we emerged upon a
ducked route
just below the
crest of the ridge. Seems we were back on track, and rather relieved that we
wouldn't have to thrash our way the remaining distance to the summit, still
some stretch away.
It would take another 40 minutes of effort to find our way up the little-used
route. Normally I disdain the ducks
along the way, but many of these were
quite helpful. As we neared the rocky summit all semblence of a trail
disappeared. Ducks could be found in competing locations and there was more
thrashing to follow. Arriving at the highpoint, we found a
wooden sign and the red HPS register cans under the class 3 summit
blocks. We
scrambled up to the top of
the blocks,
snapped a few
pictures, and went back to the register
to sign in. It was almost 10a now and we'd only gotten the first peak after
almost two hours effort. Not a good sign.
We found more ducks heading north
up the ridgeline towards the divide and Palm
View Peak. Again, we found the ducks useful as they led us along a meandering
route back and forth across the rocky ridgeline that would have involved yet
more thrashing without them. Once we reached
the PCT and started along it, it
was a short ways to the forested and completely unimpressive Palm View Peak. No
views to be had whatsoever, just an HPS register tucked among a small pile of
rocks at
the top.
Perhaps there would be a view following a forest fire? There
are good arguments to have this one excised from the list.
Heading south,
we spent the next few hours hiking the PCT up and over Little
Desert and
Pyramid Peak,
neither peak offering anything very special. By 12:30p
we had reached the
ducked turnoff for
Pine Mtn,
the highlight of the day.
Though the distance to the peak was fairly short, it took us more than an hour
to find our way to the summit block. At the saddle west of Pine Mtn we managed
to lose the trail, not noticing it traverses off to the right, below the
ridgeline. Instead we wandered up the
chaparral-covered hillside, trying to
scramble over and around a number of blocky pinnacles enroute. Much frustration
ensued. Tom went back to the saddle to look for the trail while I stubbornly
forged a route through the brush. There was evidence of cut chaparral everwhere
one looked, making me think I was on some sort of route at first. But the cuts
were very old and the chaparral had recovered nicely, and furthermore the cuts
were everywhere, not just along a route. Possibly they were the result of
firefighting efforts, but it was hard to guess, really. The stubbornness
eventually bore fruit, getting me to the summit shortly before Tom who had
found the trail and was only a few minutes behind.
There are two summits on Pine Mtn,
the highest being an impressively large and
fantastically arranged chunk of granite. Two sides are overhanging, one side
a near vertical wall with some 5.9 cracks (not really sure what they would rate,
but they were beyond our abilities),
and the fourth side was a low class 5 exercise
in friction climbing. We were awed. Though we had read the Summitpost
description and brought a rope, we came inadequately prepared. Aside from the
rope and our harnesses, I had brought a couple slings and biners but no cams
or nuts. After we had scrambled to the
highest point
we could both safely
manage, the flaw in my gear selection became painfully obvious as we stared at
the sloping block before us. What had I been thinking?
I had been thinking that low fifth class would be a piece of cake and we could
almost waltz right up it. It was a bad bit of thinking, to be honest.
Rock shoes would have helped too, but neither of us had thought enough about it
to bring them. Tom had even less faith in his trail runners than I had in my
boots, and had no interest in leading without gear.
My only choice then was to back down or solo
it. Up I went.
It was a nerve-wracking affair. The first third was fairly easy
with some small ledges to rest on and catch my breath. Never have I studied a
piece of granite so hard for small depressions and features that I could
balance a boot on or cup with my hand. Tom had been watching for a short while
but soon turned away. Later he admitted that it made him too nervous to watch
me. I have no doubt I would have done likewise if it had been the other way
around.
Fortunately the rating was accurate and I was able to reach the top without
the unthinkable happening. I breathed a heavy sigh of relief. Note to self -
next time bring more gear. I walked over to the north end of the summit block
where I found rap chains to tie the rope to. I then went back to the south side
and tossed the rope down to Tom.
I expected he could easily climb the slope
using the rope as a hand rail of sorts, but he balked at the
suggestion. "I'd like a belay please." Lazy me: "Really? Oh, alright..."
It was 2p when we both stood on the summit.
Still four peaks to go and quite a
few miles. It wasn't looking like it'd be an easy day. There was no register
to be found at the summit, none found around the base, either. We rapped off
the near vertical
east side, our 30m rope more than sufficient
to reach the rocks
below. On our way back across the summit ridge I stopped to tag the other
summit pinnacle, an easier class 3 affair, while Tom waited below. There were
two
benchmarks stamped "EVE" at the top and the red HPS cans below
the block. I signed the two of us in, then rejoined Tom for
the return to the PCT.
Next up was Lion Peak,
another
easy summit like Pyramid, just off the PCT,
though without much of a view.
Ken Point
came next, also class 2, but more than
a mile off the PCT. No trees here to mar the view, partly because of the lower
elevation and partly because Ken lies in the rain shadow east of the main crest.
The
cross-country travel up from the
old road
was easy enough on the drier
terrain. We found both the
KEN benchmark and the
HPS register at the slightly higher
southeast summit.
Back to the main PCT trail we went, then left it to
head down the west side of the crest towards Butterfly Peak.
There doesn't seem to be any "primary" route to Butterfly, a smaller peak on
the west side of the crest. The route up the east side follows a little used,
old dirt road for about half the distance,
followed
by a short but steep
cross-country route that starts where the road levels off and heads around the
southeast side of Butterfly. Some ducking of the route helped get through the
thick brush, and just after 6:15p we finally made our way to the
rock summit.
We had another hour of sunlight, and with only a single peak left, it looked
like we might just squeak it in under the wire. Alas, it was not to be.
We tried the descent off the south side of Butterfly as the shortest route to Rock Point, but that turned out to be our undoing. Ducks led down the hillside into a gully, but things were not obvious from there. I saw what I thought were ducks leading out of the gully and up the far side, but Tom talked me out of it. Only after we had descended further into the Gully of Doom did we begin to realize the mistake. It seemed like the gully led in the same direction as the road/trail we were looking for, but looked to be running parallel without an intersection point. We gave up the gully to traverse south in the direction we expected to hit the path. It was hard going with alternately brushy and sandy slopes with giant boulders to surmount intermittently. We were losing sun rapidly by now and the prospect of wallowing in this terrain without headlamps was not a pretty one.
Salvation came in the way of the Prospectors Trail
which we stumbled upon at
its terminus at an old mine. Mostly it was just a hole in the ground
that looked to have produced nothing, but the serpentine trail that wound its
way down a second gully was a life saver. It was 7p when we found our way to
the start of the trail at the old dirt road we'd been looking for all along.
The sun was just about set.
There was
a mineshaft and abandoned equipment about, an old white
pickup truck
a few minutes down the road. We agreed that it was best to forgo Rock Point
since it involved more cross-country and we had no headlamps with us. Besides,
we were plenty tired by now.
I went ahead jogging down the road ahead of Tom, intending to reach the van and bring it back to pick up Tom. As luck would have it I ran into an older couple on the last 100yds of the trail on their way down as well. They were out for a stroll, living as caretakers of sorts for the nearby Girls Camp. I took them up on the offer of a ride back to the van, and on the way listened to his yarns and stories of yore. He was one of the builders of the Prospector Trail, he claimed, having built it to service marijuana gardens planted on National Forest lands, and giving it the name to throw off suspecting officials. Everyone "back in the day" had mining claims in these hills, he said, and every one of them was growing marijuana instead of mining. A very interesting, lively, and talkative character. Back at the camp/ranch, I got a ride on the back of his Harley for the whole 200yds further to the van. I hadn't realized the van was so close to the camp when we'd left it in the morning.
After picking up a thankful Tom, we drove to Idyllwild in search of gasoline and food. We found the gas easily enough, but could not find a darn place to procure food after 8p on a Saturday night. We ended up having to make do with the meager food supplies we had in the car, crashing at the campground in Idyllwild to spend the night. The Desert Divide had done a number on us for the second time now, leaving us a tired mass of flesh and bone. And we still had one more peak to claim on the divide - it would be our first target the next morning.
Continued...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Asbestos Mountain - Cone Peak - Palm View Peak - Pyramid Peak - Pine Mountain - Lion Peak - Ken Point - Butterfly Peak
This page last updated: Thu May 28 20:31:41 2015
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