Fri, Oct 24, 2014
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Etymology Finger Rock |
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Deer Mtn is a P1K in the Southern Sierra, located in the heart of the South
Sierra Wilderness. I was in the area for four days to tackle this and a handful
of other P1Ks I had neglected on previous visits. My starting point for Deer
and a few bonus peaks was the end of the eastern fork of the Monache Jeep Road
that itself forks off the Blackrock road. The pavement ends about 3/4mi from
the trailhead and when I started in the morning I was at first hesitant to
drive down the rutted road. But after hiking about 100yds I determined that
the road got better instead of worse, went back to get the car and drove it to
its end. It was colder this morning than the previous one by some 10 degrees,
starting out at 31F when I left the van for the second time. Still, it wasn't
that cold (I've started October hikes in the Sierra at 20F) and would
warm up pleasantly enough once the sun came up. I didn't start as early as I
had the previous day since the hike wasn't going to be as demanding and there
was little concern for running out of daylight even as the days were getting
shorter. The sun had just risen when I started out at 7:30a, shining brightly
on Jackass Peak
to my left when I passed by it in the first mile. I had climbed
Jackass along with nearby Granite Knob while climbing the SPS-listed Smith Mtn
back in 2006, though I don't remember much of the details (which is the primary
reason I write this stuff down).
The Albanita Trail I traveled
starts as an old logging road closed to vehicle traffic, then becomes
a single track trail after about a quarter mile. The Wilderness
boundary is passed in that first mile at a saddle where the trail starts a
gentle decline (the saddle is on the divide between the North and South Forks
of the Kern River - interestingly, the divide itself runs north-south).
I was amused by what must have been an OHVer's dissatisfaction when he scratched
"Thanks Cranston" on
the Wilderness sign. Cranston was a
US Senator from CA, one of the backers of the congressional legislation that
led to the creation of the South Sierra Wilderness in 1984. He was treated with
much the same disdain as Boxer and Feinstein are today by the same crowd. Gotta
love politics.
I followed the trail southeast to Albanita Meadow, brown this time of
year as all the meadows are in the area, but easy enough to walk across without
soaking one's boots. The
Aqua Bonita Spring at the side of the meadow
was also dry,
surrounded by a wooden stockage to keep the cattle from crapping in it. I had
some trouble locating
the trail
past this point, later finding it was along the
northern edge of the meadow on my return. Instead, I used a cow trail that ran
down the center of the meadow, eventually reaching a trail junction at its SE
end. Here my route turned north onto the Lost Meadow Trail, passing over a low
saddle in the forest before reemerging into Lost Meadow. This narrow, mile-long
meadow has a lovely view of Olancha Peak to
the north. Near the
northern end of the meadow I failed to find the trail turning east through the
meadow's drainage as expected. I could see
Deer Mtn at this point
over the trees in that direction, so I headed off in search of the trail I
expected to find taking me down to Beck Meadows at the foot of Deer Mtn. I did
manage to find
the trail, but it's hard to locate. Diamond-shaped
metal markers periodically tacked to the trees were helpful in
keeping me on track. The trail seems to have suffered some damage due to
blowdown and rockfall and has seen little maintenance over the last decade,
becoming more of a use trail.
Down in Beck Meadows I found the Lost Meadow Trail sign indicating
the start of the trail, but good luck finding it if you haven't already come
down it. Beck Meadows is quite large compared to the other meadows I had passed
through. Together with Monache Meadows to which it's connected, the pair form a
huge meadow complex almost 8mi in length through which the South Fork of the
Kern River flows. At
the northern end rises Olancha Peak while to
the south can be seen Crag Peak on the left and Finger Rock on the
right. Near the Lost Meadow Trail sign is
a rock dam held together
by wire mesh.
A sign attached to it indicates it was erected in 1980
by the Self Help Program, a mostly
non-descriptive term that offers little insight into the builders and purpose.
Self help for those building it? For those it is intended to help? Cattle? Deer?
An online search later didn't help me any, and the dam (which held no water)
remains a mystery.
I continued east across the meadow, crossing
the PCT on
my way to the base of Deer Mtn in front of me, its summit out of view behind a
lower false summit seen from this vantage. A fire had burned over this western
slope of Deer Mtn in 2004, leaving the ghostly-white remains of
the trees that once cloaked the hillside. While leaving a somewhat
stark landscape, it also made the cross-country travel rather easy, taking only
an hour to climb some 1,400ft to
the summit. I found
two registers at the rocky outcrop forming the westernmost
and highest of two summits. The first had been placed by a Carl Heller party
from the China Lake Mtn Rescue Group
in 1971.
A second one was placed
in 1986
by an SPS group to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Sierra Club section
as well as the 1956 ascent of Deer Mtn led by Frank Sanborn. Together the two
registers
totaled almost 50 pages of entries over 43 years. Matthew Holliman had told me
he'd climbed Deer back in February so I wasn't surprised to see his as
the most recent entry in the second register.
I found that my GPS had died due to weak batteries and had neglected to bring
a spare set. Having died somewhere back near Lost Meadow, I turned it back on
for a brief moment to let it acquire a trackpoint at the summit before turning
it back off again before it shut down on its own. I would repeat the process
at Finger Rock to at least verify a few key points, but for navigational
purposes I was on my own with the old dead reckoning method as I hadn't even a
paper map with me. Through the trees to the east is the second
summit a few hundred yards distance,
and in the interest of being thorough, I decided to visit it in case it turned
out to be the higher point. The 2004 fire had stopped just short of the summit
and it was a brushier affair to reach it, not really worth the
extra effort. I found nothing of interest there and it appears to be slightly
lower to boot. I took a longer break here to eat lunch before starting back
down.
I retraced my route back to Beck Meadow
and then up to Lost Meadow. I did a
much better job of following the trail through the steep
section this time, losing
it only briefly for a short stretch. The trail is there, just not used very
much and not the most obvious. On the way back I had three bonus peaks in mind,
Finger Rock and two unnamed summits, none more than about 8/10mi from the trail.
Without the GPS functioning, I wasn't sure about being able to navigate to
them. Really, the concern wasn't so much as getting to the highpoints (which
isn't so hard) as getting back through the forest to the correct trail in this
maze of meadows that all look similar.
Finger Rock was the most interesting of the three and
the one that I'd regret not visiting the most. I had noticed it first eight
years earlier when visiting Crag Peak to the east. We had gotten a late start
that day and the hope of tagging Finger as a bonus peak was lost with the
lateness of our summiting. I had seen it just yesterday while hiking around
Monache Meadows and from a distance the finger-like summit looked like it might
be difficult. I might not be able to climb it without a rope and had no
foreknowledge from sources online or in print (Jenkins shows the summit on her
map but neglects any mention of climbing it). I thought I should at least go
up to check it out and see what it would take to climb it on a future trip.
It was after 1p when I left the Lost Meadow Trail at the low saddle south of
Lost Meadow, angling southeast towards the middle point
of the summit ridge
where I expected the highpoint to be. The map has the Finger Rock label at
the north end of the ridge but that appears to be misplaced, judging from the
views I had seen of it the past few days. My navigation skills without the GPS
turned out to still be quite good as I found
my way
up increasingly more
difficult rock on the west side to reach a notch just north of the summit
pinnacle. I appeared to reach a first impasse here with the rock directly on
the ridge too difficult to solo. I worked around to the east side to see if I
might find a way there, but while better than the direct approach, it looked
like an exposed 15-foot section of class 5ish rock that I didn't have the nerve
to attempt. Back to the notch, I worked my way around the west side, dropping
about 10ft before finding class 3 scrambling to a second notch directly below
the north side of the pinnacle. I was far from out of the woods on this one
though.
The summit block,
rising about 20ft above me from this point was most
imposing. I looked around the other sides to assure myself that the north side
provided the only reasonable way to the top. Upon closer inspection, I could
see that someone had stacked up some rocks against the north side to assist an
awkward mantle onto the sloping ledge leading to the summit, terribly exposed
should one slip. I looked at the
rickety arrangement
of rocks - this one was going to take some more thought.
A few days earlier I had managed to injure my left shoulder in some unknown
manner that I could only chock up to increasing age. Only with some effort and
pain could I lift my left arm up above my head. While I couldn't lift a heavy
object with a bent arm, I could still lift straight up with a locked elbow. My
arm and shoulder weren't completely useless, but only about halfway so. I had
figured out how to adjust my moves over class 3 terrain to reach the point I
had gotten to, but this summit mantling move was going to be beyond the strain
my left shoulder could take at the moment. It didn't help that the badly sloped
block above was lichen-y or that my reduced flexibility with age was going to
prevent me from lifting my crucial right foot high enough. I decided to spend
some time rearranging the rocks into a more secure platform. I used thin rocks
for shims to take the wobble out of the larger rocks and carefully arranged them
for more secure footing. My first effort resulted in a nice platform that I
could step on without trepidation. Though secure underfoot, I couldn't mantle
with the injured left shoulder and likewise couldn't raise my right foot high
enough to secure a footing to relieve my shoulder of the mantling effort. My
second effort
at arranging the rocks took longer and made the step about 6-8"
higher than the first effort, but the footprint of the top rock was smaller and
felt far less secure. I gingerly stepped with my left foot up on the new
arrangement to see if it helped enough. It did, but just barely. With crimpy
little finger holds and my right foot just able to reach the sloping ledge, I
pushed myself up onto the rock and hustled out of the awkward and insecure
position to the relatively safety of
the highpoint above. While
disappointed at finding no register, I was happy to look both
north
and
south across the summit ridge to ensure I was indeed at the
highest point. It was a fantastic vantage point from which to view the Southern
Sierra on an exceptionally clear day, but
I was too nervous about descending the awkward step to relax at the summit. I
felt I had to get back down while the memory of the moves I made were still
fresh in my mind to allow me to reverse them. Thankfully this went off without
a hitch, lowering my left leg over the edge of the sloping block, sight unseen,
to where I expected it to contact the 8" rock. It did, and just as quickly I
was back on safer terrain.
As I descended back down the west side of Finger Rock I was elated with my
success. After Stegosaurus Fin, it was the most exciting scrambing I'd found in
the Southern Sierra. Happy with the results, I decided to give another of the
bonus peaks a try. With only minor detours in finding the trail, I got myself
back onto the Lost Meadow Trail and followed it as it turned west into Albanita
Meadow. Near the northeast end of the meadow I turned north, aiming for Peak
9,156ft less than half a mile from the trail. Several hundred feet in height,
I had noted it earlier on the way to Deer Mtn, a large rock outcrop that appears
to be the lower companion to Jackass Peak further west. Peak 9,156ft
has a smaller brother itself, forming a second, miniature dome of rock just to
the
SE. I bypassed this lower point in making my way to the saddle between the two,
finding the easiest rock to the higher summit on the right side of the SE Ridge
(mostly just class 2). It was 3p when I reached
the top.
I half expected to find
a small Smatko register here, but found nothing. There is a good view of
Albanita Meadow and Smith Mtn to the southwest, as well as the third bonus,
Peak 9,187ft (middle of
photo).
The latter seemed pretty bland compared to the
other two with forest covering it completely. I decided it didn't merit the
extra hour it would take to add it to the day's itinerary. I descended a more
interesting route off the summit, directly down the class 3 SW face, both more
fun and a quicker route back to
the trail.
Somewhere west of Aqua Bonita Spring I missed a right turn jog in the trail and
wandered into the woods in search of it. I knew I had to pass south of Jackass
Peak which had been clearly visible
in the meadow so I wasn't too concerned, but
it was obvious that a functioning GPS would have made getting back on track a
cinch. More wandering through forest downfall eventually led me to the trail
which I had missed just to the north of my wandering. By 4p I had returned to
the TH
to finish an eventful day. Finger Rock had made it the most exciting of
the four days I was to spend in the Southern Sierra on this trip and I was
thrilled with the result. I had been contemplating leaving a day earlier to head
home, but the extra excitement had done much to renew my enthusiasm. After an
enjoyable shower at the pavement, I drove back down to the Sherman Pass Rd and
turned east, driving through
Kennedy Meadows
and then on to the Wildrose TH
where I found a shady spot to park and spend the night. I had another movie,
a TIME magazine to read and a half bottle of wine to keep me occupied
while I made a non-gourmet meal of soup and crackers. I could think of worse
ways to spend an evening...
Continued...
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