Sun, Sep 14, 2008
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Etymology Mt. Cotter Fin Dome Painted Lady Mt. Rixford |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 | Profile |
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Mt. Cotter previously climbed Sat, Jul 15, 2000 Fin Dome previously climbed Sat, Aug 2, 2003 Mt. Rixford previously climbed Sat, Aug 7, 2004 |
Matthew and I drove to Onion Valley together, but went separate ways
as he headed up to University Pass and I went over Kearsarge Pass. We
started just after 4a, which seemed like a late start after the last
few starts before 3a. Having rested
and eaten well, I was feeling great from the start. The weather was
warmer in the morning than it had been a few days earlier, and I had
my jacket on only for the first 15min or so, tshirt for the rest of
the day.
I went over Kearsarge Pass
at 5:45a, almost still dark at this time of
year.
The moon
was a smoky orange, nearly full and just about to set
over Mt. Bago to the west. I cruised down the west side of Kearsarge
Pass, around past
Bullfrog and
Charlotte lakes,
and up to Glen Pass
in the shade
of the early morning. I met a pair
of
backpackers out early having just come over the pass from the
north. The sun greeted me as I went
over Glen Pass and
down to Rae Lakes.
I met a few more parties out on
the JMT/PCT as I made my
way down to the lakes. The facial expressions are amusing when I
answer the question, "Where did you sleep last night?" with "Bishop."
Some further explanation naturally ensues.
I took the trail up to Rae Col, dropped down the other side, then
set out for Mt. Cotter via the East Ridge. There are a number of
beautiful lakes
in the upper portion of
Sixty Lake Basin that I had
never visited before. They looked stunning with a backdrop of unnamed
peaks located on the crest between Glen Pass and Mt. Gardiner.
The
East Ridge of Mt. Cotter was a far better climb
than I had expected. There were
grassy chutes
and ledges leading about
2/3 of the way up the mountain. Once on the East Ridge, it was a fine
class 2-3 scramble to
the summit,
taking about 6.5hrs. Gee, plenty of
time left in the day. I looked over at Cotter's North Summit and the
frightening
ridgeline
connecting it to where I sat. That was too much
for me to consider without a rope and a partner. Plenty of time, but
not for that!
I had a fine boot-ski down the SE Slope, passed by more of
the lakes
in Sixty Lake Basin, and eventually found my way back to the
trail. Feeling pretty darn good when I got back up to Rae Col, I
decided to detour for a climb of
Fin Dome.
I had climbed this five
years earlier with Matthew, but we had used a rope that time. I wanted
to see how long it would take without one. 30 minutes from the col to
the summit, it turns out. I thought I was taking the same route on the
West Face that we'd used before, but saw none of the familiar ducks I
had remembered. Turns out I was on a completely different line further
to the left, only realizing this when it merged with the regular route
just below the summit.
The old
aluminum box placed by the Sierra Club years ago was still
there, but there were no register books inside, just a pen and a few
broken pencils. Carrying a spare notepad in my pack, I pulled it out
and left it as the
new register book.
Returning from the summit, I got off-track again half-way down the
ducked route, taking yet a different route, this time to the right
side of the
original. Guess there's more than the one way to get up it.
Once back at Rae Col I picked up the trail and headed down
to
Rae Lakes.
A
pack train heading north on the trail was just passing
by as I arrived. I hiked south to the highest of the lakes where
I decided to go for a swim. I changed into my
birthday suit and swam out to the
large island
via the shortest route
from the shoreline. It was very cold water, but refreshing, as long as
one doesn't spend too much time in it. I dried off in the sun on a rock
at the island, then jumped in once again and swam back to shore. Nice,
warm sun to dry me off a second time. Once dressed, I wandered back to
the trail and hiked back up towards Glen Pass, detouring again to
climb
Painted Lady.
This is the last named peak in the area I had yet
to climb. An easy
700-foot ascent from the trail,
it took about half an
hour. It was now 3p. A
small register
was tucked in a plastic tub, not
likely to last more than a few more seasons. Adam Jantz's signature was
there from the last day of this year's Sierra Challenge, as I expected,
along with another climber in the intervening time.
From the summit of Painted Lady I
turned south and headed up towards Mt. Rixford. I followed the
connecting ridgeline
until it ended at the intimidating North Face of
Rixford, then bailed left to the col just east of the mountain.
Though I'd already been to Rixford's summit, it seemed a shame to leave
it unchallenged when I was
so close.
It took all of fifteen minutes to
climb the short distance up to the summit. I only briefly considered
continuing east to Mt. Gould and Dragon Peak. Having done the traverse
between Rixford and these peaks previously, it seemed I would only be
padding my stats and not really adding any new experience, so I decided
I'd had enough peaks for one day.
I dropped back to the col, and then
down the south side
to pick up the
Kearsarge Pass Trail. I think the
detour to Painted Lady and Rixford may actually have been faster than
taking the trail up to Glen Pass and back down around the west and
south sides of Rixford. The whole cross-country excursion for the last
two peaks took less than two and half hours. On my way back up to
Kearsarge Pass there were a number of backpacking
parties making their
way west into the park. One gentleman noticed my Sierra Challenge shirt
and asked if I was Bob Burd. He professed to being my biggest fan, and I
must say it was a bit embarrassing. He tried to relay the magnitude of
this chance encounter to his bewildered friend who had no idea who I
was. He looked at me lost, I shrugged. I need new shirts.
It was 5:30p when I reached Kearsarge Pass, only five miles left.
There was still some sun shining down
east of the pass, but it
was gone for the day not long after I started down. I watched the
last rays of daylight on Independence Peak as I passed by
Gilbert Lake,
then watched the Sierra shadow creep up on the Inyo Range to the east
as I descended to the trailhead.
The sun was just setting as I got back to
Onion Valley shortly after
7p. The fifteen hours was what I had predicted just to do Cotter, so
it was nice to get a few bonus peaks in for the same time. Matthew
returned about half an hour later. He had climbed Mt. Keith and Center
Peak via University Pass, not impressed with the climbing on either.
He had hoped he might even make it to East Vidette and Mt. Bago, but
it was too much to do the four peaks in one day.
Matthew now has seven peaks remaining on the SPS list. I have a few dozen more than that, which is going to make it very hard to catch up.
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Mt. Cotter - Fin Dome - Mt. Rixford
This page last updated: Tue Apr 11 16:37:06 2017
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