Jackie was home for the Christmas holiday, which often means a trip to Pinnacles
National Park for some climbing. Too much studying and not enough time at the
climbing
gym meant she was perhaps more eager than usual. With rain forecast for the end
of the week, it seemed prudent to get out early before the weather could
dampen things. We planned to do a collection of East Side climbs in the area
south and west of Bear Gulch Reservoir, but ended up spending the whole day on
The Sisters, a set of five pinnacles lined up like a family portrait just south
of the reservoir. From our last wintertime visit, we knew not to get to the park
too early when temps can be below freezing, while on the other hand, the
Park Service recommends arriving by 9:30a if one wants to find a parking spot.
We timed it just so, arriving at the entrance by 9:30a and
from the
lot by 9:45a. Due to Covid, the Visitor Center and most of
the facilities were closed and the Park Service was waiving fee collection. This
was an added bonus since my Federal Lands Pass had expired.
We took the High Peaks Trail up around the right side of Discovery Wall, then
forked left on a trail going over the top of Discovery Wall. The Sisters come
and it is easy to pick out , though the
morning sun washed out the scene some. The trail then drops to the
, one of the
more popular destinations in the park. We would see or hear others milling about
it for much of the day. We crossed the rock dam just above the upper Bear Gulch
caves, then walked around the south side of the reservoir a short distance on
the Chalone Peak Trail until we found indicating a
climbers' trail heading up to The Sisters. We followed this up for maybe 50yds
to of .
1st & 2nd Sisters
David Rubine's
Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument describes
the 3-star (highest rating) 5.4 Center Route on 1st Sister, and it was only
this route we had planned to climb initially. The route starts from the top of
a bulge (easy class 3 to reach) on the slanted North Face. Like our last few
visits, Jackie was eager to do the leads and I was happy to let her. We changed
into our climbing shoes, flaked out the rope and gave
a small section of
gear - mostly slings and quick draws since these Pinnacle routes are mostly
bolted ones and don't take other means of protection readily. The climbing is
done on various types of volcanic conglomerates. This route goes up a broad
face with no cracks but amply supplied with decent holds. As we came to find
throughout the day, the routes generally had more bolts than described by the
18yr-old guidebook. The pitch is nearly the full length of our 50m rope, with
the hardest part coming right at . Jackie spent all of ten
minutes to the pitch, clipping in 4 quickdraws before reaching
the two-bolt anchor .
She loves sport climbing. I might have spent two minutes following. Not really
sure why this one got 3 stars and others less, or even none. The climbing all
seemed similar, so I'm not sure what criteria are being used here.
Once at the top, or near it, I walked about five feet to tag the summit then
looked down at the slightly lower 2nd Sister on the backside. It's a drop of
about 8ft to the shoulder of 2nd Sister and from there it looked like a class
3 scramble to its highpoint. It seemed a shame to ignore it, so we went about
adding it to our agenda. The others would then follow in turn. We
the anchor atop 1st Sister, to 2nd
Sister's , then came back to the shoulder for the 5.7 boulder
problem on 1st Sister's backside. There's a bolt to the right to
protect the mantle move, but since we still had our rope attached to the anchor
atop 1st Sister, we simply , choosing what seemed
an easier line on (where we rapped down). Once we did
that, we down again to the shoulder, then
the on the northeast side between
1st and 2nd sister. This was mostly , with perhaps a
few class 4 moves.
5th Sister
We next followed the climbers' trail up to the top of the formation, finding
to be the runt of the litter. It's a short 5.6 pitch to the
top, an easy-ish about half way up. The
guidebook warned of only a single bolt atop the feature, but we found at least
three other bolts now making this a much safer climb. From start to finish, we
spent about 30min and . This is the least
interesting of the Sisters.
4th Sister
This is the highest of the five Sisters, most easily reached via the 5.1X North
Shoulder. Getting to the start is a little tricky, not spelled out in the
guidebook. We found it easiest to go back to the climbers' trail on the
northeast side, then ascend towards the North
Shoulder. A gets one from the chimney to
, leading to the base of the North Shoulder route.
There is one bolt at the cruxy start, really just a knobby climb on a rounded,
thin edge. We debated whether to use the rope or just solo it. I hung a cheater
sling and went up , then reversed the
moves back down to Jackie. I figured she'd be ok going up, but perhaps less so
coming down, so I carried the rope up with us as the
short route, with me following. We took a few and then
to the notch between 4th and 3rd Sisters. While Jackie was
rapping second, I scrambled back up to
the base of the North Shoulder to retrieve the gear we'd left there.
3rd Sister
Though slightly lower than 4th Sister, 3rd Sister is the toughest climb of the
bunch, a from the notch we'd rappeled into. Neither
one of us are capable of freeing the route, but Jackie wanted to give it a try.
There
are two well-placed bolts on the vertical face (actually, a little overhanging),
that can be used for aid as necessary. The first bolt can be clipped from the
start of the route and the second is about two feet higher. The combination
protects the route nicely, making it safe to fall when attempting to free it.
Jackie spent about 20min in the effort, but she could not figure out how to
get past the first bolt safely. She did manage to clip the second bolt after
a couple falls, but in the end she had to use the quick-draws for aid to pull
herself past the second bolt. Once at , there's a
third bolt and an easy scramble to on the left. I had no
better luck,
aiding off both bolts before pulling myself up to the saddle. I was quite happy
for the top rope Jackie provided from her two-bolt anchor at the summit. Once
at the top of 3rd Sister, we back to
with 4th Sister, and
back from 4th Sister's North Shoulder.
We descended the and returned to
of the Center Route on to retrieve Jackie's pack and other
gear that we'd left that at the start of our climbing. It was now after 2p and
time for us to be heading back. We would leave the other climbs we had planned
for another time. We returned to and took the interesting
trail down of Bear Gulch. The lower caves were closed,
but it was still a fun trail to follow, winding it's way through
with many steps cut into the volcanic rock. We
back at the parking lot after 2:30p, loaded our
gear in the jeep and headed for home...