Feb 13, 2013
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With: | Adam Jantz |
The primary objective for the day was going to be Machete Ridge. Adam and I had tried Old Original on Machete Ridge almost a year earlier and failed miserably, not even finding the start of the route though we could see the huge formation almost from the parking lot. We had trivialized the route-finding required and paid the price. This time we did a little more research and were rewarded by not having a repeat performance.
I met adam in Paicines, at the junction of SR25 and Panoche Rd around 9:15a. An early start wasn't really necessary since the route wouldn't take all day. We left his 4Runner at the junction and took my van to Pinnacles, some miles south on SR25. We noted the National Monument sign hasn't been changed to reflect the new designation as a National Park, but since the park's budget wasn't increased with the name change, I really didn't expect them to run out and install new signs right away. We were the only ones at the East Side Visitor Center where I bought a new Federal Lands Pass before driving to the Chalone Creek Trailhead a few more miles up the road. Starting out at 10:15a, we spent 45 minutes hiking the Old Pinnacles Trail to the entrance of the Balconies Caves. It's an easy, scenic hike that follows Chalone Creek with a few crossings before the Balconies and Machete Ridge come into view just before the caves. The caves aren't as impressive as the ones in Bear Gulch, but they do require headlamps or flashlights for a good segment that would be quite challenging with high water (thus the lockable gates on either end).
Just outside the west entrance of the caves is found a sign at the junction for the climbers' trail to Machete Ridge. We followed this up and around the formation for 20 minutes, finding several threads and a number of side trails leading to other routes on Machete Ridge. Parts of the trail were non-obvious and lightly traveled, but if one simply keeps the main wall to the immediate left, it would be hard not to find the start where the use trail tops out at a notch between two pine trees. Adam carried a well-written description of the route he'd picked up online at Mountain Project which we consulted regularly to make sure we didn't go astray this time. Once properly convinced we'd found the correct start, we scrambled up 30ft to a sloping, grassy ledge where the rope work would begin.
True to my word, I let Adam lead every pitch - at least those going up. Most of
the rappels I went first to get photographs which tend to look better from
below rather than above. Adam took the rope and climbed up to a small,
At the end of this rappel series, we were once again back on the ridge. I had
been exploring around while Adam was taking his time on the rappel, giving
me time to find the continuation of the route up a short class 3 scramble
followed by a short class 3-4 downclimb. There's a bolt that can be used to
rap this section if the downclimb looks a bit spicy. In fact there are two ways
to downclimb, one via the rap route (which I thought a bit too spicy,
the other about 15ft to the west where I found the holds sufficient to
solo. Adam came down the same way. More third class downclimbing led to the
final rap station and exit off Machete Ridge. We decided to climb the optional
Middle Tower (class 5.6 or thereabouts), Adam again taking the lead on
this. There were two bolts for clipping into on the way up. After
joining Adam, I wandered down a bit more of the ridge to the northeast
to get some pictures and take in the view looking down to Chalone
Creek. There was nowhere else to go but down at this point. Adam rigged
the rappel off the Middle Tower, letting me go first for
photo purposes. He then came down and we set up for the rap
into the descent gulley on the southeast side.
Adam rapped first into the descent gully, followed by myself.
While Adam coiled the rope I wandered down the gully some to
check the descent for more raps. It's a pretty cool gully, heavily shaded from
the sun and full of ferns and other
shade-loving plants. We found a rap sling lower down around a tree but bypassed
it with a somewhat exposed traverse that led further down the gully. Eventually
we found ourselves above the caves looking down through several openings, but
no obvious way to the trail below. Some backtracking and traversing further
east brought us to a second rap sling around a tree. We used this one to
rap down to the trail right at the east entrance to the caves. It was
just before 2:45p and we were done with the adventure part of the route. A few
other hikers were out visiting the caves as we were packing up our
gear. Shouldering our loads once again, we hiked back out to
the trailhead, finishing not long after 3:30p.
At this point I would have been happy to call it a day and drive back to
Paicines or Hollister for dinner. Adam had hoped to have more time for some
rock climbing on shorter routes and I really couldn't argue that we didn't have
enough daylight. So we drove over to the Bear Creek Gulch TH, Adam consulting
the guidebook while I drove. He picked out a route called Swallow Crack,
one of the easier routes on Discovery Wall
at class 5.6, but garnering three
stars in David Rubine's book. I not only let him lead, I let Adam find
the start of the route which he did in fine style. He was getting good
at this
rock climbing thing. I half hoped I could just be the belay slave and let him
either rap off the top or downclimb to clean it, but the single pitch route is
somewhat awkward for a downclimb and in the end I was glad to climb it too. A
bit afraid of decking without adequate protection lower down, Adam placed three
pieces of gear in the first 15 feet
of the route. I was beginning to think we
might be doing this into the dark at the rate we were going, but Adam picked
up the pace after satisfying himself that those three pieces would hold him. I
watched him from various angles as he climbed higher, moving left onto
the sloping dihedral and using a combination of cams and
fixed protection to protect it. He moved around a corner out
of sight briefly before popping up at the top about 70ft up. The only mistake he
made was in using the rappel anchor to
belay me from, rather than the better-positioned bolts found further west where
the route tops out. After following, I had to acknowledge a good lead - I would
have been nervous as hell myself on that one - I was happy to have a top rope
for the climb. We rapped off the summit in turns, taking just over an
hour on
the route. The sun was only ten minutes from setting by the time we had pulled
the rope down, packed up our gear and started back to the trailhead.
We spent the next several hour driving back out to Paicines, picking up Adam's
truck, and driving to the BLM trailhead for Griswold Hills along New Idria Road.
I had been to this TH a few times in the past for nearby summits, figuring we'd
be off the road and left undisturbed to spend the night here. We ate dinner and
watched The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean on the van's DVD player.
Not bad for vintage 1972 with Paul Newman...
Continued...
This page last updated: Mon Feb 25 16:36:16 2013
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