Sat, Nov 8, 2014
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Etymology Iron Mountain |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 | GPX | Profile |
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On the third day of my desert road trip I was targetting the Iron Mountains, a
small range in the Mojave Desert north of SR62 and NE of Joshua Tree NP. I had
made an effort to reach the range highpoint from the east side a year earlier,
but had been kicked out by security personnel for the Metropolitan Water
District. The Colorado River aqueduct runs through a 7.5mi tunnel directly
through the range (and almost directly under the highpoint). A pumping station
on the east side of the range raises water several hundred feet to allow it to
flow downhill through the tunnel and then another 34mi to the next pumping
station. As part of this station, the Water District owns the roads and some
of the surrounding property found on the east side and don't look fondly on
trespassers - at least that was my experience in 2013. On the west side I was
happy to find a sign indicating a private right-of-way road running
alongside the aqueduct, but public access still permitted. I used this
excellent dirt road
to drive some 4.5mi north of SR62 which would get me not only close
enough to the highpoint, but close enough to a P900 at the north end of the
range. I would make a large loop of the day to tag the three highest summits
in the range, covering some 18mi. Though the elevation gain and mileage would
be similar to the previous day's effort, this one would have less walking
across the desert floor and more cross-country along the spine of the range
itself.
Starting at 7a, I spent the first hour walking north across
the desert flats. Unlike yesterday's outing in BLM Wilderness, this
area has no such protection and it appears that one can drive almost where one
likes. Still,
the roads I came across were old and I didn't see any
recent tracks, at least from vehicles. I did see plenty of
animal tracks - birds, lizards, small rodents,
snakes, rabbits and some larger ones, either deer or sheep. Most of the activity
must take place at night when temperatures are cooler as I didn't see much out
during the daytime. I had originally planned to hike another 2-3 miles further
north to approach the northernmost peak from the west via a broad wash found on
that side, but after that first hour I decided that was enough. I had gotten to
the base
of a ridgeline that looked like it would make a fine alternate and up I went.
Atop the first small rise I found the remains of an old survey tower
and a 1932
triangulation station
placed by the Metropolitan Water District,
undoubtedly during the survey for the aqueduct. This is marked as the CADIZ
BM on the 7.5' topo map. Above this the ridgeline
continued, a mix of broken rock with sparse desert scrub making for enjoyable
and easy cross-country even if not all that exciting. For the most part I found
the rock on this range better than that of the two ranges yesterday, the rock
being less coarse and crumbly. In all I spent a little over two hours climbing
more than 2,000ft up
the ridgeline
over almost 4mi. There were some small drops
along the way and the middle section isn't well-defined, but there were no real
route-finding issues.
The summit of Peak 3,192ft features a modest cairn that has become
home to some nesting rodents, but I was unable to find a register of any sort.
To
the north
across the desert rise the Old Woman Mountains. In the broad desert valley is
the dry Danby Lake with some salt evaporators seen at its west end. To
the south
stretches the length of the Iron Mountains. I could make out the location
of the highpoint 4mi SSE, but it looked much further than that due to the rugged
terrain filling the space in between. On the crest of the range to the left
of the highpoint was another summit that looked to be worth visiting. Later I
found this was North Iron, the second highest peak in the range and sometimes
mistaken for the range highpoint. I had
planned to follow a route that utlized the drainages and dry canyons, but from
my perch atop Peak 3,192ft it seemed like a route following the crest wouldn't
be too bad at all, and would allow me to tag North Iron as well.
I spent the next several hours and then some traveling southeast to North Iron.
The route was about as straightforward as it had looked and the cross-country
travel even easier. There is a large side canyon
SE of Peak 3,192ft that needs
to be gotten around, but after that the terrain becomes more gentle and its easy
to lose one's self in thought without worring about loose or steep terrain. Just
north of the summit I had spied a pole on my way up from the west, causing
me to make a slight diversion to the north, thinking the rod marked the
highpoint. It turned out to be
an antenna
for an instrument no longer in service
with North Iron now obviously higher 1/8mi to the south. Andy Smatko had left a
register scrap
in 1973 that was signed by a few
additional parties before MacLeod left a better register
in 1984. The summit did not see many visitors after that - Richard
Carey in 1994, Guy Dahms and Evan Rasmussen
in 2009. I did not
find the North Iron BM, but there were
the remains
of another wooden survey tower.
The route between North Iron and the range highpoint along the crest is not
long at just over a mile and a half, but there are several sharp intermediate
summits that look like they could be some trouble. As luck would have it, the
sheep that frequent the range had solved this issue long ago, having created a
series of quite handy use trails that nicely skirt these troublesome spots. As
a result it took barely an hour to make the traverse between the two highpoints
which turned out to be the highlight of the day's outing. The register found
here was placed by MacLeod in 1984, two weeks after leaving the one on
North Iron. I'm guessing he
was the first to mistake North Iron for the highpoint. Evan Rasmussen repeated
the same error more recently, but took more than a year to
correct it.
This
register was more popular with 11 pages filled, about 1 page for every three
years. Incredibly, the
most recent entry
had been made earlier in the day by
Don Raether and I probably missed running into him only because I had spent most
of the day chasing down the range highpoints #3 and #2. I looked around to see
if I might see him retreating off somewhere, but all was still. No surprise
that he'd be long gone - it was after 1:30p, a little late in the day with only
about 3hrs before sunset.
Had I been to the highpoint an hour or more earlier, I might have considered
continuing SW along the crest another 2.5mi to Pt. 945m before dropping west
down to my starting point. Not wanting to get back in the dark and feeling the
effects of a long day already, I chose instead to head west down a much shorter
section of ridgeline that dropped me into the dry wash
west of the highpoint.
Though steep in places, there was nothing particularly difficult in this effort
that took about an hour. Once in the wash, I had a little more than three miles
of hiking which took up another hour. As I neared the aqueduct I found many
acres of what look to be
piles of gravel - probably the dumpings
from when the aqueduct was excavated. I came across an abandoned campsite just
before I reached the van. Persons unknown had driven a collection of vehicles
out here to spend some time in the desert drinking, shooting, and then a
lot more drinking. They left behind the remains of a
shade pop-up,
manequins and other items
riddled with holes, an empty chest of drawers, boxes of empty beer bottles and,
oddly, two
storage bins of Playboys
dating to the early 1990s in at least three
languages, among other items. It had redneck written all over it...
Back at the car
a few minutes later, it was now almost 4p. In summer this might
give me three or four more hours of daylight, but not so much in November. By
the time I had showered, driven back out to SR62 and south on SR177 about 20mi,
the sun had set. I left the highway to head west on another Metropolitan Water
District road used to service the aqueduct as it tunnels through the Coxcomb
and Eagle Mountains. This road was not nearly as good as the one for the Iron
Mtns and by the time I had driven 4mi it had grown quite dark. I would spend
the night here on the edge of Joshua Tree NP south of the Coxcomb Mtns for a
hike I planned in these mountains for the next morning. It was a lonely, quiet
spot to while away the evening. It was somewhat surprising to find I had cell
coverage out here, though I had none anywhere on the highway. Go figure...
continued...
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