Sat, Sep 16, 2023
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With: | Kristine Swigart |
It was probably ten years ago when I first took special note of Alpine County. There is very little development in the county with more than 95% of it on public lands. Luther, Carson, Ebbetts, and Sonora Passes can all be found in Alpine County, with almost every road in the county a candidate for scenic byway. It is the only county located entirely in the Sierra Nevada, with all of its 154 summits above 5,500ft. All but one are located on public lands, making it possibly the largest (by number of summits) of the state's counties that can be reasonably completed. More than half of the county is taken up by the Mokelumne and Carson-Iceberg Wildernesses, making the effort both incredibly scenic and challenging. I had begun working on the county's summits about 10 years ago, but never in great earnest, whittling away, maybe 15-20 summits every summer. When Kristine moved to the Topaz Lake area on the east side of the county three years ago, she kept prodding me to tackle these summits more determinedly. Over these past years, we've paid numerous visits until we had gotten my list down to just a handful. There were only two summits with more than 300ft of prominence remaining, and four soft ranked ones. Five of these could be done in a 20mi day with 6,000ft+ of elevation gain. Kristine had done four of these a year earlier but was eager to join me to get the one she missed and a few others nearby that I'd already done.
I had camped the night in Little Antelope Valley at a quiet turnout along Golden Gate Rd, a road that would take us up to the Corral Valley TH at Rodriguez Flat the next morning. We made plans for Kristine to meet me at 6a for an early start, so I was dutifully up and ready to go by 5:45a. It was still dark when Kristine's headlights came into view and then zoomed past me on the dusty road - evidently she knew I was ready and didn't need to bother with even a greeting. I followed her at some distance to keep from choking on her dust, and by 6:15a we were at the TH. It was just growing light so we wouldn't need headlamps, though still about half an hour until sunrise.
We spent the first half hour plying the familiar trail uphill to the
high junction at 8,751ft. We'd been on this trail only ten days earlier,
so it was fresh in our minds. The sun was just rising on our line of
10,000-foot peaks
to the southwest, looking quite far at this point. I had expected that we would
follow the right fork down to Silver King Creek as we'd done on our previous
visit, but ahead, Kristine turned to the left. I stopped her to make sure
this was a deliberate choice, knowing it was about a mile shorter, but would
add about 1,000ft of gain, crossing two valleys that we could otherwise avoid.
I think the right fork would have been the easier
route, but I was swayed by her reasoning, "It's a bigger loop!" And so we
headed down to Corral Valley instead. It's a pleasant drop at an easy
gradient, open to views the whole way. Crossing Corral Valley would be the
first of several meadow crossings that had us nervous. The grasses are high, the
ground uneven, and it can be difficult to tell marsh from dry land. Normally
these would be a breeze in September, but a heavy snow year has kept the
valleys wet all summer.
Once across the creek and meadow, we started up the first of two ascents
on this leg, climbing 400ft through mostly forest, to gain
a saddle
leading down to Coyote Valley, about 300ft lower than Corral Valley.
Our peaks were still some distance away but getting closer, and we could
see more details as we headed off the southwest side of the saddle. We descended
into
Coyote Valley, worked our way across
the wet meadow, and
then made a 300-foot ascent
over another ridge before descending finally
to
Upper Fish Valley. This was the more serious drainage of the three,
and we could not find a way across Silver King Creek without taking
our boots off. There is
old fencing and a
USFS log cabin that was once Connells Cow Camp. It does not appear that
there were ever roads built to this remote site, and very likely the camp was
exclusively supplied by pack train. There is a pack station back at our starting
point, but it appears they don't come out this way often, mostly to places
further north.
So much for the preliminary, now for the cross-country part.
It was now almost 9a and we'd been at it for more
than two and half hours. Now it was time for the big climb of the day, a nearly
3,000ft ascent to our first summit, Peak 10,040ft on the east side of Whitecliff
Lake. We had to ascend about two miles up Bull Canyon, a route I had been down
13 years earlier when I did a 20mi loop that included Whitecliff Peak, starting
from the south. There were remnants of a trail in Bull Canyon back then, and as
we came to find out, these
still exist. The cross-country travel is
pretty easy albeit
steep in places, so it's not all that important to
find
the trail. We stayed on the north side of
the stream
running down the canyon, taking the right fork that leads to Whitecliff Lake.
Kristine was leading most of the way up this, eventually turning south to
approach the first peak before we reached Whitecliff Lake. About an hour and
twenty minutes up from the bottom, we were at the base of the peak looking at a
route just left of the cliffy
North Face. We didn't know if it would
work, but it seemed a good deal shorter than taking the more certain route up
from the SW side. There was a small boulder field to cross and some loose
slopes, but we made it work at
class 3 without too much trouble,
despite the poor quality of the granite we scrambled over. The final hundred
feet are over tamer,
brown volcanic rubble that caps the granite base
of the peak.
It was 10:30a before we reached the summit and took our first break of
the day, one well-deserved. The sky was mostly overcast, having us wondering if
our luck would hold out (forecast was for 30% of rain after 2p). So far, the
weather had been near-ideal, with cool temps that kept us in our tshirts for all
but the first 30 minutes of the day. It would start to warm when the sun came
out, but thankfully there was little of that today. I left
the first of
five registers on the day while we discussed our next move. Kristine
planned to head to Whitecliff Peak, afterwards she might head south to the next
summit, or backtrack and chase me down along the ridge heading north. I planned
to head to Peak 10,433ft next, first dropping to Whitecliff Lake and then up
to the ridge along which the other four peaks were arranged. I was thinking I
would take the direct route from our summit perch, bypassing the lake to the
east. This would allow me to also bypass Pt. 10,486ft just north of the lake.
Kristine talked me into going over this point, so that we could travel
together down to the lake's west shore, then up to the high ridgeline. Seemed
like good idea, and would allow me to visit the lake.
We headed off the rubbly southwest side of our peak to a saddle, then a
sandy/graveley
descending traverse towards the lake. We were still
several hundred feet above the lake when Kristine changed her mind. She decided
to head for the saddle on the SE side of Whitecliff Peak, thinking it would be
less work than her first idea. So we bid goodbye from a distance, and I turned
to continue down to the lake. I skirted around the west side of the lake, then
up a chute to
the north that I had spied during the descent. This was
steep and somewhat loose, but all class 2, and got me onto the main ridge by
11:40a. I
went over the rocky Pt. 10,486ft, the highpoint of my day
though it has little prominence. Then another 20min or so to get me to Peak
10,433ft, mostly by following the ridgeline. I skirted around the west side to
avoid tedious rubble on the south side, then went up the short distance to
the summit. The weather continued to hold, and now that I was done with
most of the uphill cross-country, was feeling pretty good about finishing out
the day. The next summit, Peak 10,120ft, was only half a mile to
the northwest, but would prove the most challenging part of the day.
I knew this peak would have some class 4+ scrambling from verbal reports I got
from Rob Houghton and Kristine after their visits. Getting to the base
of the peak is almost trivial, as most of the long ridgeline makes for
delightfully easy cross-country travel. I could see from a distance that the
summit blocks would be another story. Having tracks from both Rob and Kristine,
I knew to approach the summit from the east, working my way up the short but
steep slopes to reach the base of the more challenging work. There are two
closely spaced summits of nearly equal height. The northern one looks a bit
easier but is slightly lower - by only a few feet. The real work is getting up
the southern one. I hadn't given it much thought beforehand because I figured I
had scrambling skills on par with the other two, but this was looking hard. I
walked around the base of the 30-foot summit to make sure I didn't miss anything
obvious. I went through a narrow passage on the north side to get around to
the west side where
a wide ramp goes about 1/3 of the way up. At the
upper end of the ramp, there is a narrow crack running diagonally back to the
north, with a large, awkward boulder to get around just to reach it. The crack
looked quite difficult, so I went back to the east side. There appears to be
a chimney-ish thing to climb on that side, or a face climb just
to the right. I went up the
first part of this where the
routes split, then out to the right for the face climb which I found exceedingly
sketchy on the poorly consolidated granite. I worked slowly up to about five
from from the summit where I ran out of handholds. The one I was hoping would be
bomber ripped off when I pulled on it. Finding it too rich, I backed down, just
about ready to give up. I caught my breath and decided to move left through some
scraggly pines to see what the south side looked like. I found that it
brought me around to the start of
the crack on the west side, above the
awkward boulder - at least I wouldn't have to do the dicey move around it. This
crack running diagonally up the west side has rock above it that goes vertical
and pushes one out of the crack. It was incredibly awkward, but it had the
saving grace of allowing my right arm to fit in the crack and hold me if I
slipped off. It was a minute or so of much nervousness, but it worked at low
fifth class and got me to the summit a bit out of breath and over-adrenalized.
I stayed only long enough to catch my breath, take a few
photos and
leave
a register, then quickly back down before I could overthink it.
Thankfully, this was the last of the hard work, or at least of anything that
would make me nervous. I spent the next hour hiking the easy ridgeline
up and over the last two summits. Peak 10,040ft, only 1/3mi from Peak 10,120ft,
had a bit of class 3 at
the summit, but very tame compared to the last
one.
Peak 10,186ft was further along the ridge, about 2/3mi, but all
class 2. It was 2:15p when I left the last summit. I turned north to follow the
continuing ridge for a short while, before starting a
descending traverse on the east side of the ridge. I was following
Kristine's track, aiming for the Poison Lake Trail, about a mile NNE of the last
summit. The cross-country through forest on that side was similarly tame and I
found t
he good trail without any issues. It followed the trail for more
than three miles as it traverses high above the Tamarack Creek drainage with
open views across the Wilderness looking south and east, then
descending to Silver King Creek, about three miles, all told.
I was quite tired by this time, barely able to bend over or move at more than
a plodding pace. It took me some time to get my boots and socks off for
the creek crossing, taking an extra rest on either bank of the creek.
After getting my boots back on and my gear collected, I had a last 1,200-foot
ascent over two miles to climb back up to
the high junction. I was
happy that this gradient is
pretty gentle and allowed me to keep at it
without needing to stop for additional rest. It would be 5:30p before I finally
returned to the trailhead, over 11hrs for the outing and the longest
I've done this year. Phew.
I saw Kristine's car was still at the TH, which had me believe she'd decided to follow me along the ridge after visiting Whitecliff. I took a well-needed shower and settled in with a well-earned beer while I download photos from my camera and did other small chores over the next hour. My brain had been pretty addled when I arrived and was slow to clear some of the fatigue and fog away. It was around this time that it occurred to me that I think Kristine's car is a Suburu Forester, not a Honda CRV, and that she had Nevada plates, not California ones. I had no cell service at the TH, but not five minutes after driving off, I got three incoming texts from Kristine wanting me to check in with her. I gave her a call while I drove back down the road, finding that she'd returned around 5p and left about 10min before my arrival. She was back at home now, and invited me to camp on her property for the night. We had plans to hike in Douglas County the next day, but I was too beat to consider it and had to cancel. I ended up driving back to SR108 and over Carson Pass before bedding down for the night around the 5,000-foot level on the west side of the range around 8:30p. I was too tired to bother with dinner and went to bed without, not really hungry and happy with the day's success. I would feel even better after a day of recuperation at home the next day...
This page last updated: Wed Sep 20 10:40:03 2023
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