Tue, Sep 25, 2012
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Etymology |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 3 | GPXs: 1 2 | Profiles: 1 2 |
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Big Sam later climbed Sat, Jul 2, 2022 |
The section of the PCT south of SR108 may be the longest stretch where the trail
actually follows along or very close to the Pacific Crest, some 10 miles in
all to near Emigrant Pass. This makes the hike along the trail scenic for views,
but through a very stark, volcanic landscape with little vegetation. I enjoyed
watching the sky lighten over the Sweetwater Range to the east and
seeing the shapes and colors of the day take on definition as the sun slowly
worked its way nearer the horizon. The
sun rose shortly before 7a,
lighting up
Peak 11,260ft before me. The trail, following along the
west side of the crest for the last several miles, goes over a high
saddle north of this peak as the trail dips over to the
east side to
traverse around both Peak 11,260ft and Leavitt Peak.
Latopie Lake,
formed by a retreating glacier that once clung in the cirque between the two
summits, is one of the few breaks from the acre upon acre of talus and rocks
one passes through. South of Leavitt Peak
the trail returns
to the west side of the crest with fine views across Kennedy Creek to
Molo and Kennedy Peaks, with
Relief Peak further in the
background. A
deer grazing on the crest spotted me,
looked around, then
walked off over to the east side of the
crest and out of view. It was the only one I would see all day.
Around 8:40a I reached the Leavitt Lake Trail junction. Had I a high
clearance
vehicle I could have shaved many miles off the approach by driving to Leavitt
Lake and hiking the mile and a half to this point. Where the trail goes over
again to the east side of the crest I got the first views of my target summit,
Peak 10,827ft still some miles
to the south. The trail here follows a
very old
mining road that has been many decades since it saw a vehicle upon it. But the
path it takes makes some broad switchbacks more to the liking of vehicles and
pack animals than to hikers. A
shortcut has developed over the years
to bypass the most egregious of these switchbacks and I was happy to make use
of it.
It was 9a before I reached a trail junction near the low saddle north
of Peak 10,827ft. I paused for a short break among a few scraggily pines. A few
deer jawbones had been collected here and set upon some rocks. For
some reason, the
PCT turns east here to drop down Kennedy Canyon and the Walker River drainage
before climbing back up to the crest at the Yosemite boundary at Dorothy Lake
Pass. The more crest-like route goes to Emigrant Pass and then into Yosemite
via Bond Pass, but perhaps that was deemed less scenic or something. I followed
the trail towards Emigrant Pass but only for about five minutes before
it was
time to head cross-country towards my summit. The route I took was an arcing
one, southeast to Pt. 10,423ft, then around to Peak 10,827ft. Trying to avoid
extra elevation gain (and loss), I sidehilled around
the east side of
Pt. 10,423ft, finding it a messy affair with loose talus that sent me tumbling
at several spots. The north side of the crest here is
cut sharply with
cliffs and
steep couloirs, the work of glaciers that once resided on
this side. All of
the rock from Sonora Pass to this point is volcanic in nature, the broken and
fractured stuff that makes for poor rock climbing. To south of the crest could
now be seen the first of the
granite features that more thoroughly
characterize Northern Yosemite and most of the High Sierra.
It was almost 10:15a by the time I reached the point on the topo map marked
with a spot elevation of 10,827ft. I expected this to be the P1K point, higher
than most of the surrounding points. It was marked with a thin steel
rod set vertically amongst the summit rocks with a commanding view over the
Walker River drainage looking
east and
southeast. There is
also a scenic view looking
south to Emigrant Pass and Grizzly Peak, as
well as
southwest to Emigrant Lakes and Meadow. But it was not the
highest point around. Several points
looking west appeared obviously
higher. I had planned to return once I'd gotten to this
point, but I now altered the plan slightly to hike east to the next two points
and then take the the trail back from the second one where it goes over the top
before dropping to Emigrant Pass.
Using my GPS to measure the relative elevation differences, I found the next
point 15 minutes further west to be about 20ft higher. Looking east,
this seemed about right. Looking west to
Big Sam (Pt. 10,825ft), it was
impossible to tell which was higher. The hiking along the crest was rather easy,
pleasant and scenic all at the same time, and in another 20 minutes I had made
my way to the point
furthest west. The GPS showed the summit to be
about 2ft lower than the
middle one. In the end I concluded that the east summit is definitely the
lowest, the middle one is probably the highest, but the west one ought to
be climbed as well if someone wants to really be sure they tagged the prominent
point. The views from the west summit were pretty good too, as they included
better views to the Emigrant Pass area and to features west of the crest such
as
Peak 10,612ft about a mile away and the massive granite features
of the Emigrant Wilderness behind it.
I found the trail easily enough going past Big Sam a few yards
away, and turned to follow it north for my return. The
old roadbed is
clearly defined as
it switchbacks down the north side of the summit. I avoided the longest
switchback on this side of the mountain by some easy cross-country, then
regained the trail which I followed back to the junction with the PCT. While I
was taking the shortcut on the east side of Pt. 10,562ft, I spotted a
pair of horsemen with mules in tow making their way down the longer
switchback. They were the first persons I'd seen on the day and the last ones
until I came across
a solo hiker with his dog about an hour and a half
later. At this point I was less than an hour from Sonora Pass, so it wasn't
surprising to see other day hikers. Ten minutes later I came across
an older couple who paused to ask me if there were any lakes around.
Seems they were looking for a view or
something to give them an excuse to turn around. I told them Latopie Lake was
just over the ridge yonder to the south, about 15 minutes away. This appeared
to satisfy them and they happily continued on their way.
It was almost 2:30p before I got back to Sonora Pass, a bit short of
nine hours
for the outing. Not ready to quit just yet, I drove east over Sonora Pass down
to US395, then north to SR89, up over Monitor Pass and further west over
Ebbetts Pass and Pacific Grade Summit. Two hours's driving had me within a mile
of Peak 9,115ft, a second unnamed P1K. It is the highest point between SR4 and
the Mokelumne River that includes the area around the Bear Valley ski resort and
nearby Mt. Reba. There is no trail leading anywhere near it, but the
cross-country is not very hard and certainly not very long - less than two miles
round trip. I
parked alongside SR4 at the nearest clearing, crossed
the road and made my way
through the forest. It did not take long for
the forest to thin
and find myself on steep slopes heading up to the main ridgeline that I
followed northeast to the summit. The highpoint is found among some
rocky volcanic pinnacles,
some easy class 3 required to reach it. This last part was
a little unexpected, but not unwelcome, the only class 3 scrambling I had on
the day, though only a few moments' worth. As with most P1Ks, there is a good
view in all directions -
west to Mt. Reba,
north across the
Mokelumne Wilderness to Roundtop and the summits around Lake Tahoe,
east to Silver and Highland Peaks,
southeast across the
Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. I took a variation on the descent, looking for more
class 3 to the
south of the summit (but finding little worth
commenting on), eventually
getting back to the van by 5:45p.
I drove back east towards Ebbetts Pass, turning south to Highland Lakes before reaching the pass. I spent the night at the TH found at the east end of the larger lake. It had been a long day with a longer one planned for the next day. I would not stay awake much past sunset which was a good thing since I planned to get up even earlier the next day...
Continued...
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