Sun, Feb 21, 2021
|
With: | Eric Smith |
Today's effort was a five peak loop in the Turtle Mountains in the vicinity
of the popular Mopah and Umpah Peaks. We would use the same trailhead as used
for those two summits, at the end of the dirt Heritage Trail off US95. My main
goal was Kettle BM, a summit with more than 850ft of prominence. We drove both
our vehicles to the TH, allowing for more options to return at different
times. The only other visitor had driven in on a motorcycle about 20min ahead
of us. We wouldn't see see him while we were out hiking, but Eric would find
him back at the trailhead, confirming he'd gone to Mopah and Umpah. It was 7:15a
by the time we were ready and
heading out. We followed
the Mopah Trail for about a mile and a half, or 2/3 of the distance to
our first stop, Peak 2,050ft. The Mopah trail continues around the north and
west side of our peak, but we headed cross-country up towards its summit from
the northeast. We climbed the
class 2 slopes to gain
the NE Ridge just below the summit, and found our way to
the top
an hour and twenty minutes after starting out. The summit has a stunning view of
Mopah Peak about 2/3mi to the southwest. It certainly looked
imposing from our vantage point. We talked briefly about diverting to Mopah to
give Eric a crack at it, but he wasn't yet ready to take on the class 4 crux
without more preparation. We knew that Chris Kerth had been here back in
November, but found no register, so we added his name to
one that we left before starting down. Later, I learned that he was
here with Stavros Basis (of stavislost.com), on a 5-peak loop that included both
Mopah and Umpah, a pretty burly outing. Sorry to leave your name off Stav - it
was ignorance, not intent.
Getting off the SW side of Peak 2,673ft was not as easy as we might have hoped.
There is a reasonable class 2-3 route, several in fact, one of which
Chris and Stav found seemingly without much trouble. We stuck close to
the SW Ridge and ended up descending a neat little
chimney/gully that ended with a dry waterfall. I had Eric waiting a
short distance above so I could scope out the route. I noticed there was a class
3-4 bypass for the waterfall and would have skipped it if there was any doubt
about what lay below. But it was clear that there was nothing but easier class 2
ground, this being the last difficulty. I figured I could talk Eric through this
one, so I had him come down and join me, watching as I made the 15-foot bypass.
The rock wasn't very good and some pieces came out - this wasn't going to help
things much. But I cleared out what I could and helped Eric with the various
foot placements - no time for pictures during this process. Eric did quite well,
both of us
emerging unscathed, and Eric merely commenting that he hoped
I didn't take him down anything harder than that the rest of the day. I didn't.
Once on easier ground, We turned south and southeast to our second summit, Peak
2,553ft. It took us past the East Face of Mopah with a close view,
though it still looked quite difficult from that distance (the East Face has
some class 3, but the class 4 is out of view around the northeast side, higher
up).
Peak 2,553ft was not without its challenges, two pointy summits
along a rocky summit ridge. Knowing the south summit was the highpoint, we made
our way up the class 2 West Face aiming for the saddle between the two points.
Once there, we found some nice
class 3 scrambling on good rock, not
quite a knife-edge, but pretty airy. Eric and I had been conversing this whole
time and he paused to comment that it was helping a good deal to keep talking
and take his mind off the exposure. We
landed on the summit at 10:30a,
finding
a register left by dhgold in 2016. There were a few other
entries since then, including Adam Walker in 2018. This had been the last peak
that Chris and Stav had visited on their November tour, so it's probable that
they simply missed finding the register tucked in the summit cairn. Kettle BM,
our third stop, was still some distance to
the south and quite a bit
higher. Eric had already begun to waiver while climbing the current peak and by
now had decided that he was going to cut the loop short, skipping the next two summits.
Our descent of Peak 2,553ft went off the SW side, down a class 2 gully
that took a little
class 3 scrambling and a dose of faith to make work.
Eric was surprised that it worked as well as it did, thinking I had some sort of
magic powers where a bit of luck was all it required. After reaching a wash at
the base of the peak, we
took leave of each other, heading in different
directions. We would meet up again back at the TH. While Eric turned southeast
towards Peak 2,273ft, I continued south, in a fairly direct line aiming for the
summit of Kettle BM at the eastern edge of a rather large summit plateau. Though
direct, my route was somewhat tedious, crossing over
a number of ribs
dropping down from the upper cliffband that guards the east side of the plateau.
It would have been nicer to gain the plateau earlier, but I could find no
suitable break in the cliff until I was within
a short distance of the
highpoint. The 1,400ft of gain was somewhat deceptive and it took me much longer
than I expected to get between Peak 2,553ft and Kettle BM, about an hour and
three quarters for a distance of under two miles. The ascent wasn't much to
recommend, but the register was a good one. The oldest sheet was one of Smatko's
tiny scrolls
from 1971 with Bill Schuler. The next vistor was John Vitz
in 1994, leaving a more standard notepad that had 9 pages of entries.
The most recent visitor was
Guy Dahms earlier in the month. There
weren't as many visitors as one would guess from counting pages - those nine
pages were from only six parties, so the summit sees only a few visitors each
decade.
Descending the east side of Kettle BM turned out to be the most difficult part
of the day. I hadn't realized just how fraught that side is with steep gullies,
dry waterfalls,
detached pinnacles and generally crappy rock.
It would have been easiest to reverse my route off towards
the north,
but in the search for new adventure, I
walked south along the plateau,
going around Pt. 3,444ft before
dropping off the NE Face. This began a
series of dead-ends and backtracking that took me into various adjacent gullies
to the north before I
found one that didn't end in a dry waterfall. It
was over an hour before I
finally emerged from the cliffs and gullies
to reach easier ground. I crossed the south end of the valley with
Peak 2,688ft, my next stop, aiming for the
South Ridge/Slope,
a straightforward class 2 route to the summit that took about half an hour from
below. Had I done the loop in reverse, I would have clearly seen how convoluted
Kettle BM's east side was. Oh well, I doubt that route will get much
repeat business.
After leaving a register at the lonely top of Peak 2,668ft, I headed
off
the North Ridge, hoping to reach a saddle from where I could then
drop off the east side towards the last summit,
Peak 2,273ft, just over
half a mile away. The ridge was fun class 3 up until it wasn't. There was a
class 4-ish drop with crappy rock that I couldn't bring myself to
execute, even though it would mean more back tracking. I ended up on a very airy
class 3 descent route on the upper part of
the west side before I could
reach easier ground that allowed me to traverse to the saddle I'd been trying to
reach originally. Once at the saddle, the rest of the day would be a class 2
affair. As I'd hoped, the saddle offered the easiest route through
the cliffs on the east side of Peak 2,688ft, after which
Peak 2,273ft was a more mundance pile of volcanic rubble with more
slog than excitement to it. I was on its summit by 3p, an hour after leaving
the previous summit. I left
a register here, adding Eric's name since I
already knew he'd been here several hours ago from the various texts we'd
exchanged.
At this point I was about 3mi from the TH, almost due north, and set
off in that direction much as Eric had done hours earlier. From high on the
summit
of Peak 2,273ft, it seems like this is a straight shot, mostly downhill or
flat, but as one descends off the north side of the peak, it becomes clearer
that there are some rounded ridges one has to go up and over enroute. Because
the terrain is fairly tame, I didn't much mind the extra gain and loss,
happy to be in cruising mode for the last hour and a half of the day. It was
4:30p by the time I
returned to the vehicles at the TH, finding Eric
comfortably ensconsed in his sleeping bag and car, reading. He was so relaxed
that he asked if it would be ok if we simply camped there for the night. It
would. We
had some driving to do in the morning to return to the highway and then to our
next peaks in the Whipple Mtns, but there was no reason that couldn't wait. As
it was Sunday night, there was little chance of being disturbed by others at
the TH, and indeed it would prove a very quiet place to spend the night...
Continued...
This page last updated: Sat Mar 6 15:44:47 2021
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