Sun, Oct 2, 2011
|
With: | Matthew Holliman |
Steve Sywyk |
My first thought was to take Steve climbing on Half Dome's Snake Dike. Having never been on a rope before, Steve was enthusiastic and we quickly started to make plans. His wife, who had spent time working in Yosemite many years ago, showed markedly less enthusiasm and expressed a strong preference that her husband get some beginner experience before taking on such a project. So we changed plans, and I picked a group of peaks on, or just outside the Yosemite boundary that I had seen on visits to Foerster Peak and Ansel Adams Peak a few years earlier. About 12hrs before we were scheduled to start off, Matthew sent me an email saying he had Sunday free with a list of about a dozen suggestions. One of them was the same plan I had just decided on with Steve. So they both came over to my house around 10p and we took off shortly thereafter.
The drive was a long one, some 5.5hrs to reach the Isberg Pass Trailhead near
the Clover Meadow Ranger Station. I had chosen the Minarets Rd instead of
Beasore Rd because the pavement was in much better condition, but I neglected
to recall that the route is an extra 20-25 miles longer. A combination of a
late start leaving San Jose, extra gas stops, and this route choice meant that
we didn't get to the trailhead and on our way until 4a. Luckily we had Matthew
with us who remembered all the correct turns once past Clover Meadow to reach
the Isberg TH.
I'd have had us starting at Granite Creek CG which adds an additional mile.
It was just past a new moon, and what there was of a crescent moon had set hours
before. Not that it would have helped to have a full moon anyway, as there was
a nearly complete cloud cover giving the sky an inky blackness. It would be hard
to imagine things any darker as we started off by the
light of three weak headlamps,
all of them in need of fresh batteries. We hiked for an hour to the north to
reach the Wilderness boundary near The Niche, and came to the first
trail junction around 5:15a.
There are numerous trail junctions past this point, many unsigned, and
it became habit to pause at each one, check the map, check the GPS, check with
each other, and continue on. Matthew and I had a pretty good familiarization
with the area from previous trips and so made these deliberations fairly
quickly. Steve, wholely unfamiliar with the area, was at a disadvantage in
trying to keep up with the discussion and did his best to understand the various
forks in the event that he might be returning on his own. He at least knew
enough about us to recognize this as a possibility, and perhaps already had a
foreboding of what was to come.
We crossed over Cora Creek (easily done in October, not so easily earlier in
the season), continuing north to Chetwood Creek and an old log cabin found
there, now heavily in disrepair. Not long after 6:30a we wandered off on the
wrong fork at an unmarked junction that took us to a packer
campsite on the
eastern edge of a small meadow. We recrossed the meadow and eventually picked
up the trail again, only to lose it once more at another meadow half a mile
later. Steve was starting to lag more significantly by this time. We'd slowed
our pace considerably as daylight came on and we found ourselves not too
far
below the cloud ceiling.
Steve had had several hours to think about why he
was having difficulties, concluding that not having run for the past several
months, nor getting any other sort of aerobic exercise, nor remembering he had
asthma and bringing his enhaler, combined with his turning 50yrs old in a few
months all added up to a very low score. Matthew and I didn't really have to
say anything as Steve excelled at taking himself to task and and apologizing
for his poor performance. I actually cared about the slow pace much less than
he imagined, primarily because I kept hoping that if we stalled long enough
the clouds might have a chance to dissipate or at least rise higher.
We had been aiming for a point along the trail where it goes over a saddle east
of Sadler Peak. Having lost the trail and now sidehilling in an effort to
relocate it, I suggested we might just forget the saddle and head straight up
to Sadler since the cross-country was pretty tame. Aside from the cloud cover
and chilly conditions, it was kinda nice hiking up as the
views opened with the
thinning trees.
We had less than a mile to go to reach Sadler's summit.
Steve had already told us we could ditch him if needed to meet
our objectives, but of course it wouldn't be that easy. We had been following
a thin trail with many forks and it was unlikely to be a simple exercise for
him to use the map to find his way back. I figured we'd reach Sadler and then
devise a plan for splitting up or returning. It was 8:15a when Steve finally
said he didn't think he could make it to Sadler.
He was tired enough that he
was getting sloppy and stumbling a bit. We were still 0.4mi to the summit, the
last 2/3 of a mile having taken nearly an hour. We put on warmer clothes while
discussing options as the breeze picked up and the air grew colder. There
wasn't a whole lot of deliberation as I'd already given the prospect much
thought while waiting for Steve to catch up. The best option (other than
returning with Steve to the TH) was to give Steve my GPS which had a track of
our route already marked and he would simply need to follow it back to the
trailhead. I gave him a quick lesson on how to use it, a set of extra batteries,
and eventually we parted.
I would have liked to keep the GPS to mark our route for
the day, but that had to take a backseat to getting Steve back safely. He was
certainly lucid and capable enough to get back on his own, of that I had no
worries. I felt bad that he was going to be waiting around for us for many
hours, but that's part of the game and he was no stranger to it. We bade him
goodbye and continued up the hill.
Matthew set a more typical pace and my heartrate was soon up to its normal
speed in following him towards the summit. The clouds did not dissipate as we'd
hoped and we soon found ourselves among them. It was only fifteen minutes since
we'd left Steve before we reached Sadler Peak,
finding the summit benchmark and
register shortly after 8:30a.
The glass mason jar was cracked, probably from the weight of the rock that had
been sitting on it where we found it. We opened it carefully, added a few
signatures, and replaced it. An empty coffee can was with it, perhaps in
anticipation of the cracked jar soon becoming unusable. There were
no views at all in any direction.
Our planned route from this point was a giant arc, up one rideline to our highpoint of the day at Long Mtn, then down another ridgeline following the Yosemite Border as far as Post Peak Pass. We were hoping for easy walking with great views over the next several hours, but the clouds were making a mockery of our plans. Oh well, we don't always get to serve up sunny weather in the Sierra. The good news was that these weren't thunderclouds and there was no threat of lightning strikes. There was no rain in the forecast either, and things were expected to improve as the day progressed. For the moment we would have to suffice with imagining the grandeur of the Minarets and the Ritter Range off to the east, snowy Lyell/Maclure to the north, and Southern Yosemite sweeping off to the west.
The traverse along the ridgeline was decent. We might have wished for some fun
class 3 scrambling, but with almost seven mile of ridge to traverse we wouldn't
make much progress if things really got tough. Most of it turned out to be the
class 1-2 we were expecting, with some interesting sections and some
not-so-interesting boulder hopping, the latter fortunately kept to a minimum.
The clouds were indeed rising as we progressed along, but we were also gaining
1,000ft in the 2.5mi stretch between Sadler Peak and Long Mtn. This kept us very
near the edge of the clouds, usually just above it, and our views to either side
were only fleeting. We would stop to
snap a picture anytime a view opened up for
a few seconds, regardless of whether it actually merited doing so or whether we
even knew what we were looking at. At Pt. 10,724ft we found a small plastic
film cannister
under a small cairn. The contents were wet and nothing more than
a soft blob of paper mulch, completely unreadable. It seemed like the sort of
register and claim of "first recorded ascent" that Andy Smatko would leave, but
we'll never know ... (actually, I have a list of Smatko ascents and found an
entry for this 'summit' on Aug 31, 1987, so it seems quite plausible that it
was left by Andy).
It as after 10a before we could make out the
final stretch to
the summit of
Long Mtn, which indeed has a long summit ridge leading to the actual highpoint.
The views were minimal, with an enticing view of
the ridgeline leading north
towards Foerster Peak and not much else. We found a register dating back not
more than a few years, tucked in a nalgene bottle with a bunch of scraps that
were hard to make out. These summits were proving more popular than I would
have guessed. There was a fairly strong wind blowing now, about 20mph. We
already had our fleeces, balaclavas and gloves on and would keep them on for
most of the day. We could obtain temporary relief from the wind on the leeward
northwestern side of the ridge leading down from Long Mtn, but this was not
always possible due to cliffs and difficult terrain that characterized long
portions of that side.
Descending the
West Ridge towards Isberg Peak, we mistook a
closer,
unnamed summit
for our next objective which
we reached shortly after 11a. A summit
register
listed it as "Blush Peak" which served to confuse us rather than shed
light on our mislocation. The register dated to around 2000 and there were no
corrections on the cover of the booklet to recommend this as Isberg Peak which
should have clued us in. Instead we concluded that a whole lot of people other
than ourselves were grossly misinformed. Matthew had actually been up Isberg
Peak a few years earlier and commented that he didn't remember seeing the
register at that time. Yet another clue, but we remained happily clueless.
According to the map we knew that
Isberg Pass should be found shortly south of Isberg Peak, so we kept our eyes
out for the trail on either side of the saddle as
we approached it. We were
steadily dropping in elevation and the weather was improving with it, views
opening
into Yosemite and west to
the Clark Range. Blue sky
could be seen periodically, for only fleeting moments at first, but eventually
becoming partly cloudy as the afternoon progressed.
It was just before noon when we reached what we thought was Isberg Pass. There
was a Yosemite boundary marker and a
good-sized cairn
located there, but I saw
no signs of a trail. "Where's the trail?" I asked Matthew, as I started to have
doubts about our map reading skills. He seemed wholely unconcerned, commenting
that "It's sort of tricky around here" and other similarly unreassuring drivel.
While he sat to have a snack, I pulled out my map and did a more careful study
of the surrounding terrain. Noting where the map showed lakes to be on either
side of the pass and finding no such lakes to match, and further noting that
Isberg Peak is not all that close to Long Mtn as would have been required, I
came to believe we were not at Isberg Pass and had not yet reached Isberg Peak.
I showed my reasoning to Matthew who seemed not much concerned one way or the
other. He agreed that I was probably correct, but showed no embarrassment for
allowing us to believe otherwise, considering he'd already been to both
Isberg Peak and Pass only a few years earlier. Though I berated him for this
failing, I couldn't really treat him too harshly, knowing I'm more than capable
of doing the same.
Isberg Peak turned out to be the smallish peak immediately before us
along the ridge, sporting a distinctive orange stripe on its northeastern flank.
We scrambled up
the ridge over
class 2-3 terrain,
reaching a highpoint only to find the true summit
further south
and not nearly as peak-like as the first hump
we'd come up. We found no register at any of the possible locations for the
highpoint along the poorly-defined summit, traversing
across the top of it
without actually stopping. The wind provided sufficient reason to keep us
moving.
It was 1p when we finally reached Isberg Pass, complete with the
Yosemite trail sign
that one would expect to find upon entering the park. We followed the trail
a short distance over the Yosemite side of the pass, leaving it to head
cross-country
along the west side of the crest to reach Post Peak Pass. There
are trails going over both passes that join a few hundred feet down on the
Yosemite side, but we didn't want to lose the elevation nor take the circuitous
extra distance it would entail. Ten minutes later we were back on trail, going
back
over the crest
to the Ansel Adams Wilderness and then following the trail
for about 3/4 mile to
Post Peak Pass.
Our major goal was Post Peak, an obscurity I had tried to climb two years
earlier. Secor rates it as class 1 from Post Peak Pass and I thought this should
be easy enough as a quick stop on my way to Ansel Adams Peak, even though it was
still dark at the time. I had found a summit block that I dared not attempt,
making a mental note to come back in the future with a rope to give it another
go. This was also the main reason Matthew had been interested in this adventure,
and equipped with a rope, a couple of harnesses and two carabiners, we were
prepared for another go. Despite the fact that there is really no class 1
on the peak
and portions near the top are more like class 3, it took us little
more than 15 minutes to reach
the base
of the summit block from the trail at Post Peak Pass.
The summit block was very much as I had remembered. I admitted that the darkness
may have prevented me from noticing an easier way up the summit block, but in
the daylight it looked no easier. While Matthew was finishing up the last of
the ridge to reach the summit block, I was busy flaking out the rope, lassoing
the summit block and securing a simple hand line to facilitate the crux move
onto the highpoint. A sloping ledge on the summit block is easily
reached with
a step-across from a lower, subsidiary block, but the
final mantle onto the top
is awkward. I handed Matthew my camera to take a few pictures of my effort
getting up,
sitting upon, and then
descending
the summit block. The loop of
rope around the block turned out to be only psychologically necessary as a
safety grab in the event something went wrong.
After I was done playing around, Matthew went up to give it a long look,
eventually balking and asking for a belay. In an abuse of proper equipment use,
I rigged a top rope
by running one of the free ends of the rope through the
loop. I had used one carabiner to close the loop and the second would be used
in belaying Matthew, so it seemed a quick and dirty way to make a belay work
without additional gear. Matthew used this to reach the sloping ledge and
touch the top, content not to actually sit or stand on the summit. While he
was up there I handed him some rocks to build a cairn on the summit. I had
rigged a makeshift register inside a PowerAde bottle that I thought would be
good to place on the summit. The plan hadn't been thought out too carefully, as
Matthew found it awkward to try and place rocks in any sort of structure that
could hold the register bottle. In the end we were lucky to get three rocks
stacked up
and one of these fell off when I was removing the rope loop later.
We left the bottle under an overhanging shelf near the base of the block,
packed up our gear and headed down.
There was a last summit we had considered reaching, Timber Knob, about three
miles southeast of Post Peak, but neither of us at this time felt like doing
anything else. It was 2:30p and we knew we had more than three hours to get
back to the trailhead, so we opted for the quickest return route. We judged this
to be down the SE Slopes of Post Peak to Joe Crane Lake,
picking up a trail to return to the Isberg Pass Trail.
We were 45 minutes descending the Post Peak to
Joe Crane Lake. The descent from
the summit looks like it could be tedious boulder hopping, but it wasn't so at
all. The boulders were fairly well settled and made for an enjoyable downward
scramble. At the base of the mountain we were finally able to take off our
extra clothing as the wind died down to a pleasant breeze and the sun made
a partial appearance. Matthew paused
to get some water at Joe Crane
Lake, after which we found
the trail easily enough and started our
return march. It was a delightful afternoon hike, passing through
forest,
meadows and some slabby terrain, with occasional views
of the
surrounding summits. There were numerous
trail junctions, all of them marked and easily discernable. It was
4:30p when we passed by
Cora Lakes,
the sun reflecting brightly off the rippled
surface waters. We crossed
Cora Creek and closed our loop at the
signed junction just above
The Niche
where we had passed by almost 12hrs earlier.
Below The Niche we dropped into the
Granite Creek drainage
jogging most of the remaining distance back to
the trailhead.
It was just past 5:30p when we got back. The van door was open,
Steve inside reading a book. He'd had hours to nap,
rest and relax, what he described as his "quiet little retreat". There was
far less chat on the drive home than we had had on the way up. Partly this was
because we'd run through all our catchup conversation and a good deal more on
the drive in and during the hike, but mostly of course because we were pretty
tired. It would be 11p before we got home, all of us
looking to sleep in the next morning as a well-deserved treat...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Isberg Peak
This page last updated: Tue Apr 23 12:38:13 2019
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