Thu, Jun 5, 2008
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Etymology San Bernardino East Peak San Bernardino Peak Anderson Peak Shields Peak Heart Bar Peak Keller Peak Slide Peak Mill Peak |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 3 | Profiles: 1 2 |
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In the fall of 2007 Rick Kent managed to climb 17 named peaks around the San Gorgonio area in a long 17hr day, some 38 miles and 12,000ft of elevation gain. Today's hike was an admittedly weak attempt to recreate that climb, failing due to a number of factors not the least of which I am not Rick Kent. The 17 peak effort was an outgrowth of the Nine Peaks Challenge, a less tough version that is quite popular among the fit hiking crowd in Southern California. I would probably have failed at that as well on this particular day.
I started from the
South Fork trailhead on the north side of San Gorgonio just
after 5a. Parking the van, I headed back down the road to the Forsee Creek
TH, in the same fashion that Rick had done. I even took a shortcut through the
forest to cut off some mileage in much the same manner as Rick had. Like a
clone, I was going to be Rick, for the day at least. It didn't take long
for things to go wrong. Emerging from the forest, I crossed over a dirt road
I mistook for an access road to a camp area when in fact it was the road heading
to the Forsee Creek TH. Consequently, I wandered west of the TH cross-country
through thick forest, traversing steep hillsides, lost among YMCA camps and
long-forgotten forest roads and trails. None of my cursing and swearing could
make up for the fact that I didn't have a topo map. Dang, was I frustrated.
The net result
was it took me an hour and a half to reach the
Forsee Creek TH
where Rick had
taken but 37 minutes. I was losing ground at an alarming rate and I hadn't even
been on the trail yet.
Once I started up the Forsee Trail, my frustration drained away and I began to
actually enjoy the day despite the early mistakes. As the trail
rose higher and
higher, I could see that there was still a good deal of snow on the
north slopes
of the mountain and I wondered if this was going to cause me trouble as
I climbed higher. I was somewhat surprised to find that the trail for the most
part seemed to keep to snow-free areas, even where there was snow off to both
sides of the shallow ridge it switchbacked up. I reached one
trail junction
without hitting any snow, but about 300 feet below the ridgecrest this ended
abruptly. The trail disappeared under a complete blanket of snow, hard and
steep. Suspecting this might happen, I had brought crampons which I used to
climb the slope up to the crest. This was the only place I
needed them as the
snow soon after began to soften. And fortunately there wasn't nearly as much
snow along the crest itself where much of the travel would occur.
Without access to a printer the night before, I had only a hand-drawn map with
me, showing the approximate location of the peaks and the connecting trail
system. Now that the trail was buried under snow, I wasn't so sure of where I
was heading as I climbed up towards the crest. Consequently, I had nearly
climbed to the summit of Anderson Peak before suspecting my error. I would have
to climb Anderson on my way back from San Bernardino Peak anyway, so climbing it
first was only adding extra effort. More time lost. I turned west and headed
down the west slopes of Anderson, picking up the trail towards San Bernardino
East. I could see the peak, about a mile to
the west, as I traveled between
two trail
junctions along the crest, skirting the
large piles of snow with huge
suncups as best I could. Some of it was unavoidable, but at least I wasn't
postholing. It was almost 9:30a by the time I finally reached
the summit
of San Bernardino East, almost four and a half hours after starting out.
That was close to twice the time it took Rick to reach the same peak. Ouch. My
doubts about the day were not diminishing.
For the next several hours things went quite well, as I continued west to
San Bernardino Peak before reversing course and heading east along
the crest, retagging
San Bernardino East, then on to
Anderson,
Shields, and
Alto Diablo.
My times were almost identical to Rick's during this stretch. On my map I
had penciled in the split times rick had listed on his websites, and I was able
to judge my arrival at the next peak to within a minute or two quite accurately.
None of the
five peaks I climbed in this stretch were of much significance, really just
moderate bumps on the long ridgline extending west from San Gorgonio's summit.
The summit registers on the five peaks were uniform-looking
ammo boxes, names
stenciled on the cover, as part of an Eagle Scout project done a few years ago.
The two boxes on
Anderson and
Shields
had already been vandalized - bent and
battered, with the lids removed and missing. The contents of these were
beginning to deteriorate. Such is the ephemeral existence of summit registers
on popular peaks...
I reached Dollar Lake Saddle at noon.
Ahead of me was a moderate climb to the
next summit in line, Charlton Peak.
The northwest slope heading up to the peak was
half covered in snow. More ugh. I was going to start slowing down again, it was
clear. By now I realized that I was not just going to finish in the dark, but
long after dark.
Without a familiarization with the area and recalling my lost
wandering in the morning, bright red letters spelling "EPIC" flashed in my mind.
I was not in the mood for an epic while chasing HPS peaks. So I decided to bail
at this point. I could
head down
the Dollar Lake Trail to the South Fork Trail
to finish the day. And next time I come back I could do a loop out of the
South Fork Trail to do the remaining twelve peaks. Hopefully without so much
snow. It took only two hours to hike back out to the South Fork TH, for the
most part a pleasant hike with only a little snow when I started the descent.
I
passed by
several parties when I got down to the South Fork Trail, the only
place I saw others the whole day. There are a few delightful
grassy meadows to pass through, some
rustic cabins,
wildflowers in bloom, and miles of
shady forest.
It was still relatively early when I got back,
only 2p, so I set out to finish
the day with nine peaks, even if they weren't the "classic" collection. Driving
back towards Big Bear, I stopped a little more than a mile east of the Heart
Bar Campground at a hard-to-find
side road
to climb Heart Bar Peak. The directions in the HPS guide were most helpful in
finding the turnoff. I parked the van just off the road, hiked down the dirt
road to a small creekbed,
then started up the hillside for the mountain. The dirt
road can be followed in a meandering path the whole way to the summit as
described in the HPS guide, but it
is 3-4 times the length of the direct route to the summit which is about half a
mile. Of course the direct route is steep, climbing more than 1,000ft in that
short distance, and I was sweating something good when I finally found my way
to the top. Forgetting the camera back in the car, I got no pictures from
the summit. I found the red cans of the HPS register among some summit boulders,
with plenty of signatures
to show the peak is more popular than I would have guessed. The whole outing
took less than an hour and I can't say there was any sense of accomplishment on
that one when I was through. Even from a distance
the peak
is rounded and
unimpressive along the same ridgeline with much higher, unnamed summits. Heck,
the highway even climbs higher a few miles from the trailhead when it climbs
over Onyx Summit. Such is the selection criteria for HPS peaks...
I next spent about an hour driving back through Big Bear and then west on SR18
to the town of Arrow Bear. Just south of town is the Deer Lick Ranger Station
and the Keller Peak Rd. The road is narrow, rather windy, but thankfully paved
the entire six miles to the fire lookout tower atop Keller Peak. Hey look, an
HPS summit you can drive to! I arrived at
the lookout only twenty minutes before
closing. I didn't know anything about the gated entrance and tower staffed by
volunteers, but it was actually
pretty cool.
The peak has an amazingly steep
south face that drops down to the Santa Ana River Basin and the San Bernardino
urban sprawl below.
Hazy weather marred the views, the volunteer
offering that early morning usually is the best time to visit.
Next up was Slide Peak, just east of Keller.
I parked at a very
small turnout
off the road not far outside the gate in order to follow an old
jeep track east
to the summit of Slide. The peak is particularly lame, barely rising above
the ridgeline that extends northeast from Keller.
A chairlift
for a local ski
area crowns the summit. There was no register to be found in the boulders that
marked the highest point on the summit. Some views were good - one could see
Butler Peak and the Rim of World Road (SR18) to
the north,
San Gorgonio to
the east, and of course Keller Peak to
the west. The whole outing to Slide took about 25 minutes.
Driving back down Keller Peak Road, I'd saved the hardest of the three for
last, the hardest part of Mill Peak being in finding where to start. I drove
past the hard-to-see turnoff a few times before narrowing it down based on my
map and the HPS directions. The dirt side road
that I was looking for is hidden from view until you
pull off
the pavement. The various
roads I found along the
way to the
peak did not seem to match 1:1 to the map I carried, and the summit is not
obvious at all when approaching from the north. But because the distance from
the trailhead is only about a mile, it would be hard to get too lost when
searching out the summit. For the last several hundred feet of the summit I
left the trail when it veered east, hiking through
the steep forest slopes to
the top. I found the
HPS register easily enough,
and signed in. Trees at the summit block much of the views, and haze to the
south blocked what remained, though
Keller Peak
looks pretty good from the west. The outing to Mill took just under an hour,
getting me
back to the van by 6:20p. Though I had a
few hours of daylight left, I'd had enough fun with HPS peaks today. Time to
rest up and find another challenge for the following day, though not likely
selected from Rick's website this time...
Continued...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: San Bernardino East Peak - San Bernardino Peak - Anderson Peak - Shields Peak - Alto Diablo - Heart Bar Peak - Keller Peak - Slide Peak
This page last updated: Mon Mar 1 11:44:32 2010
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