Sat, Jul 2, 2011
|
With: | Tom Becht |
Jon Barbour | |
Laura Molnar |
I had been whittling away at the HPS list for much of a decade, climbing the first ones inadvertently when I was chasing county highpoints in 2002. It wasn't until 2004 that I became aware of the Sierra Club list. Since that time I've made regular trips to Southern California, sometimes just passing through on my way to San Diego, other times visiting family members in the LA area, and occasionally spending up to a week in the surrounding mountains. At first I had recruited Matthew to join me on these HPS trips in the Sierra off-season (after we had already done the SPS peaks in the northern and southern portions of the Sierra), but he soon tired of them and turned his attention to the desert peaks which I was later forced to admit were far better in most respects. Still, I didn't give up on the HPS peaks and continued to plug away at them as time permitted. There was some irony in the long drives I would make from San Jose to reach them. I lived in the LA area for the first 24 years of my life but never climbed a single one of them. Thus, the long drives to revisit the land of my birth.
I had met Tom Becht during the 2006 Sierra Challenge and came to find he was also interested in the HPS summits, climbing them on most weekends. Since then I have climbed dozens of HPS peaks with Tom. They aren't always fun or pretty, but unlike Matthew, he never really complains about them. Having finished off all the outliers in the surrounding areas over the past few weeks, I had left the last nineteen peaks clustered around San Gorgonio. Two of those we had done the previous day, leaving seventeen to be done in two long days. The first of these was a tour around San Gorgonio itself, starting from the north side and utilizing the South Fork Trail. It would not be an easy day, to be sure. Joining us were Tom's coworker Jon, and Laura, who had driven down from Bishop on a July 4th weekend just to be there for the list finish. What a friend, eh?
Starting from the TH along Jenks Lake Rd, we were ready to go shortly before
6a. Whenever around the Eastern Sierra with Laura, it is no longer surprising
to find her meeting an acquaintance somewhere during the day either at the TH,
on the trail, or back in town at dinner. Outside her home base one would think
it would be harder for her to pull off this trick, but she managed it just the
same. Her friend Jeff
and his friend were about to embark on a similar
peakbagging tour around San Gorgonio, starting at the same time but going in
a clockwise loop to our counterclockwise route. They were catching up for a
good ten minutes before
we started and then another hour or so
afterwards. We paused at
Poopout Hill after the first few miles to
check out the
old TH signs before the road to it was closed to
vehicle traffic some years ago. Though there was a nice
decade-old sign explaining the conservation efforts in the area
going back almost a century, there were no hints suggesting where the name
"Poopout" came from. My best guess is that this slight uphill on the return was
the bane of backcountry travelers in reaching their cars after a long day.
By 7:15a we had reached the trail junction
that marked our divergence point.
Jeff and his friend went left to the Grinnel/Lost Creek Trail, while the rest
of us took the Dry/Dollar Lake fork to the right. The trail had been mostly an
easy grade to this point, but quickly begins a series of switchbacks as it
climbs out of the South Fork drainage and up towards Dollar Lake Saddle.
Shortly after passing a family with a couple of pre-teens who had managed to
start before us, we came across a
baby chipmunk sitting helplessly
in the trail.
It did not scamper off when we approached and appeared to be either injured or
frightened or simply unaware of the dangers around it. It was shivering some
and made no effort to keep Tom from
picking it up.
Tom passed in on to Laura
who showed it to the family that was just coming up behind us. It may have
fallen out of a nest from above or otherwise been abandoned. None of us knew
what to do with the helpless creature and in the end Laura left it tucked in
the shelter of a fallen log but we all guessed it wouldn't live much longer.
It was almost 8:30a when Tom and I reached Dollar Saddle, ten or fifteen
minutes ahead of Laura and Jon. They were not planning on tagging all the peaks
Tom and I had in mind, so were going to take a more leisurely pace. We passed
a father/son backpacking team
just before
the saddle and they met up with us
again as we took a short break there. From the saddle, Tom and I headed
cross-country up the class 2 Northwest Slopes to
Charlton,
our first stop. The wide,
sandy-topped summit
affords good views of San Gorgonio to
the southeast
and the main crest heading west that we would follow for much of the way. The
register was found inside a battered
ammo box
with a missing lid, the work of
some summit vandals, no doubt. An Eagle Scout had made a project out of
supplying a network of similar boxes along the crest from San Gorgonio to East
San Bernardino, but in only a few years most have been beaten and disfigured
or gone missing altogether. Who'd have guessed that hiking and climbing could
produce so much agression towards these inanimate little boxes?
We continued south along the ridge, dropping a short distance to a saddle then up to the summit of Little Charlton, the only non-HPS peak of the day. Finding no register there, we continued south to the next saddle where we expected to pick up the trail again. We must have walked right over it because we soon found ourselves wandering around about 100ft below the saddle, through a trailside campsite but yet no sign of the trail. A familiar voice from above started shouting to us and then laughing when she guessed our dilemma. "Looking for something?" she asked. "Yeah, the trail," came the sheepish reply.
Back together again, the four of us continued on the trail around the west side
of Jepson Peak for about a mile. The next peak on the list was Dobbs, about
a mile off the trail on a side ridge to the southwest.
Tom had already
visited Dobbs and the others had no interest either, so it would just be me
heading that way. Following behind the other three, I left the trail without so
much as a "See ya later," dropping down before reaching the connecting saddle
figuring I could shorten the distance with a more direct approach. It took only
20 minutes to reach the sandy summit. The top had no
special views
to offer but it did have a register dating to 1999, one of the oldest ones I
expected to find on the day (I would be wrong by more than 20 years). It was
badly weathered
from only 12 years of age and seemed unlikely to last another decade.
It was 10:30a before I found my way back up to the trail and
found the others
lounging on rocks in the sun on the south side of Jepson. Laura and
Tom decided
to join me for the fifteen minute scramble up to
Jepson's summit while Jon opted
to continue along the trail. We told him we'd meet him at the next saddle east
of Jepson. The register box we found had only
a few scraps of paper and no
book. Now that we were over 11,000ft in elevation the views were quite good
in all directions. The only higher point was to
the east,
San Gorgonio, which would be our next stop.
We descended easy slopes from Jepson towards the east. Laura eyed the
snow on
the northeast slopes, wishing she could ski down instead of
hiking and commented that she'd have to come back in the winter or spring to do
just that. We
picked up Jon at the saddle and spent the next half hour
continuing east along the trail to the summit of San Gorgonio. At
a trail junction we met up with another hiker coming up the Vivian
Creek Trail and
followed him to the summit. There were
several other parties at the summit when we got there, Laura and Jon about ten
minutes behind Tom and I. There were
three register containers
clustered about
the summit, all of them filled with scraps and books of various makes, none of
them dating back more than a few years. As the
highest point
in Southern
California it is very popular, excessively so. Outside of the views, I didn't
really like the summit on my first visit and didn't care for it on the second.
There are far too many rock walls built around the large summit area for those
spending the night and wanting to keep out the wind, but they look like so much
trash to me. We didn't bother to sign the register and didn't stay more than a
few minutes.
We headed south off the summit, dropping almost 1,000ft on our way to
our next target,
Dragons Head. There was
some snow to cross,
but mostly lots of easy boot-skiing followed by more
tedious talus. A
use trail goes up
the NE Ridge from the connecting saddle, making for
a
class 1 ascent of a few hundred feet.
The East Face of Dragons Head is an impressive display of cliffs and fractured
rock, all of it horrendously loose and useless to climbers. But pretty to look
at. We reached the summit at noon, finding
the views swell. Our next
summit, Bighorn, was about a mile to
the east and nearly the same
elevation, perhaps 100ft higher. We found the best register of the day on
Dragons Head, a book in very good condition dating
to 1973. I
photographed the first 43 pages containing entries to 1981. A
second book dated to 1975, the first page containing familiar names
including R.S. Fink and Barbara Lilley.
We retreated back down the NE Ridge, then headed east across the shallow flats
towards Bighorn. We were surprised to find a large and rather heavy
bighorn skull in this flat area,
though perhaps more surprised than we should have been
considering the name of the peak we were heading to. After examining the skull
we left it perched on a log for the next backcountry visitor to find. Unlike
Dragons Head, there was no use trail up Bighorn Peak. Instead we found a tedious
collection of
sand and talus
leading more than halfway up before larger boulders
and easier ground presented themselves. It was 12:45p when we reached
the summit of Bighorn. Hazy views included Palm Springs to
the southeast, San Jacinto to
the south, and the
Beaumont/Banning areas to
the southwest. San Gorgonio
dominates the view to
the northwest.
Bighorn also had an old register, dating
to 1975,
and looking very much like the second register we found on Dragons
Head judging by the names on the first few pages.
Descending Bighorn, we crossed
the sandy tarn (the topo map shows a tarn here,
but all we found was sand) and started up the steep slopes facing south to
reach the Sky High Trail on San Gorgonio's SE side. After more than 400ft of
climbing we
reached the trail, followed it a short distance around to
the
east side of the mountain and then began a long series of switchbacks heading
back down almost 1,000ft. There was snow across the trail in many places
making for tricky crossings in a dozen places. Luckily the snow was soft enough
that a slip would be messy and wet, but probably not injury-inducing. There
were
other hikers
on the trail now, mostly heading down after summiting San
Gorgonio. These we passed one by one. We kept an eye out for Jeff and his
friend, thinking we should have seen them by now going in the opposite
direction. Either they had skipped one or more of the peaks we visited, or
somehow got around us undetected. We saw no entries from them in any of the
registers we found.
I was ahead of Tom by about ten minutes when I reached the trail junction at
Mine Shaft Saddle north of San Gorgonio. The mystery was cleared up when I found
Jeff, friend, Laura and Jon all gathered
at the saddle. Jeff and his partner had
found the first three peaks on their agenda harder than anticipated,
particularly Ten Thousand Foot Ridge which they described as "A lot farther
than we expected." That gave me some cause for concern since these were the
last three peaks
that I had to do as well. Still, it was hard to reckon what
they had done with the last seven hours since we last saw them, as the distance
was only about seven miles. Could the cross-country be that rough?
Tom caught up in time, we rested
a bit longer,
then took off again. Laura and Jon were heading down while Tom was
to continue with me to Lake Peak and Ten Thousand Foot Ridge.
Lake Peak is immediately northeast and up from the saddle, though finding the
summit is no easy feat. Most of the mountain is forested and the upper ridgeline
is large and contains a number of possible highpoints making it non-obvious.
Even the coordinate from my GPS's database has the summit several hundred feet
from the actual highpoint. Shortly before 3p we found the large
pile of boulders leading to
the highpoint, suddenly open to
views.
San Gorgonio,
Little Charlton and
Charlton
all had good profiles from this spot. We stayed about ten minutes to give
Tom a chance to eat his lunch (which he'd so far dragged around for
nine hours without an opportunity to eat it).
After lunch we continued east across Lake Peak towards Ten Thousand Foot Ridge.
We found the cross-country not all that difficult and within twenty minutes had
the rounded summit in view
to the west about half a mile distant. In fifteen
minutes more we had dropped to the intervening saddle and made our way to
the summit.
As on Lake Peak, there was a register book in the usual nested red cans,
though neither dated back more than a few years. We retraced about half the
route back towards Lake Peak, then it was time to
leave Tom. I still needed to visit
Grinnell Peak
to the northwest, Tom having already done so previously. He
continued along the Lake Peak ridge while I started a descending traverse
towards Grinnell.
It took an hour to reach the summit of Grinnell from the previous summit. I had
more trouble locating the highpoint as the summit was both spread out and
covered in trees. The GPS again proved unhelpful in locating the summit with a
coordinate that was off by hundreds of feet (I wish Garmin had provided a way
to update summit locations with correct coordinates). I found the red cans
amidst a cairn
and
another book placed by Mars Bonfire. He must tire of having
to replace so many registers so often on these popular summits.
I headed west off Grinnell, continuing cross-country and eventually dropping
down to the Dry Lake Trail
below the lake. Twenty minutes later I came
across Tom
who had seen me plying the switchbacks above him and had stopped to wait
for me. About ten minutes later we
crossed the
two streams
just before the
junction with the Dollar Lake Trail, noting a good many additional hikers along
the route now. All that was left was the final hour down the trail to Poopout
Hill and back to the South Fork TH.
It was around 6:45p when we got off the trail, Laura and Jon already lounging outside the vehicles, drinking libations and looking rather relaxed. It did not take Tom and I long to join them, though first we found semi-secluded locations to rinse off and get some clean clothes on. Ok, Tom did a better job of finding or rather creating seclusion. I was far less modest and just rinsed off behind the back of the van. Luckily no one was around that part of the parking lot for those few minutes to be offended. We had chips and guacamole, other snacks, and eventually dinner as well in the parking lot as we watched the sun setting off to the west. A truck drove up with a caretaker or some other non-ranger government personnel inside, an older gentleman with a penchant for talk. In the course of the 30 or so minutes he was there he had told us most of his family history and their connection to the immediate area dating back more than 60 years along with a great deal more information than any of us realized we had asked for, or wanted for that matter. Laura, Tom and Jon all managed to extract themselves from the conversation before he was quite through, leaving me to hold up our end of the head nodding and "Is that so?" He eventually left us in peace, evidently not at all concerned that we planned to spend the night there or of the presence of alcohol. It turned out to be a relatively quiet place to spend the evening sleeping in the back of our vehicles - after the libations had been consumed in due time, of course.
Continued...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Charlton Peak - Little Charlton Peak - Dobbs Peak - Jepson Peak - San Gorgonio Mountain - Dragons Head - Bighorn Mountain - Lake Peak - Ten Thousand Foot Ridge - Grinnell Mountain
This page last updated: Thu May 22 17:14:59 2014
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