Fri, Jun 24, 2011
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Etymology |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 3 | Profiles: 1 2 |
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Santa Paula Peak rises to the north above the sleepy town of Santa Paula in
Ventura County. Just missing the HPS elevation requirement of 5,000ft, it lands
on the tally of the dozen or so remaining summits that I had yet to do on the
LPC list.
Access via the easiest route from the south is not routine, requiring an
approach through an avocado farm and ranchlands. Fortunately, the owner is
very amiable and allows folks to traverse his property, asking only that one
asks for permission ahead of time. I had called him several days prior, found
him very personable, and parked at the end of the pavement described in the
LPC guide where his house is located, as requested. It was foggy out when I
arrived at 6a, no one stirring outside or within
the house that I could
discern. The fog had pushed inland only a short distance beyond his house, and
within a few minutes of
starting out I was already breaking beyond the cloud layer.
The LPC guide was key in actually finding the start of the Santa Paula Trail
that makes its way to the summit and beyond. One follows the road along
the eastern edge of the
avocado farm, through a
locked gate
onto ranch lands, then a series of connecting
use trails and old roads
leads to the hillside where the
trail starts, marked by a small cairn.
At some time in the past one can imagine
that this trail had a real starting point accessible to the general public, but
it seems to have fallen into disuse. Still, the trail is used enough to maintain
a decent tread that can be followed through the grass and chaparral-covered
hillsides.
I followed the route for more than two hours, winding its way above
the coastal fog and the Santa Clara River Valley, and eventually along
the
SE Ridge of the peak. A dilapidated
sign marks a junction
with the Santa Paula Canyon Trail, the other, longer access route from the west
and north. A short distance up from this junction is
the summit of
Santa Paula where I arrived around 8:30a. The summit affords sweeping views of
the Pacific Ocean (when not obscured by fog) to the south, a long stretch of the
Santa Paula Ridge to
the west, and the higher mountains of the Sespe
Condor Sanctuary that lies to
the north. A register found
in an ammo box dated
to 1982.
Not long after leaving the summit I came across the first of two interesting
wildlife encounters on the day, a horned toad
that scampered off the trail as I came by. At
the trail junction I turned north, intending to pay a visit to an unlisted
summit called
San Cayetano Mountain
a few miles to the east. The trail was good
until I reached the saddle on the north side of Santa Paula Peak. The good
trail continued down the slope on that side to
Santa Paula Canyon (the other
approach route), but my trail turned eastward towards San Cayetano. There was
some fencing hardware, empty plastic bottles and the exploded remains of a
first aid box full of bandages that
looked to have been left by a work crew but
abandoned
some months or longer.
Beyond this gear the trail continued, but began to deteriorate the further I
went. Eventually I was left to follow a series of
yellow ribbons down the
north slopes of a hillside in a poison oak-infested oak forest, but even the
ribbons were eventually lost. I had only gotten a third to a fourth of the
way to San Cayetano and decided this was going to be a much bigger undertaking
than I was prepared for. The poison oak was just too abundant to strike off
cross-country without a trail or markers. Back I went.
On my way back down the main trail I came across
a rattlesnake in the middle
of the trail, having started the process of ingesting a mouse it had presumeably
just killed. It was not at all happy to see me and was completely defenseless
at the moment while its mouth was engaged in engulfing the mouse. Thinking
better of the situation, the snake immediately regurgitated the mouse and went
slithering off the trail and down the slope out of sight. I examined the mouse
briefly, then kicked it down the slope towards where the snake had gone, hoping
I might have made it easier for it to retrieve its meal after I left. It was
sometime after 11am before I returned to my van. There was still no sign of
anyone stirring at the home as I drove off.
I headed east on SR126 along the Santa Clara River to Santa Clarita, then through Newhall and onto the Old Sierra Highway that runs north of SR14 and used to be the main route into the high desert before SR14 was constructed. I was headed for the Sierra Pelona HP and Mt. McDill (the latter an old HPS summit that was recently reinstated). The HPS route comes from the north or northwest to McDill, and Evan had approached Sierra Pelona from the southwest. I was going off some satellite views and a bit of other online beta to approach it from the southeast via Shannon Valley Rd.
The area is filled with small homesteads that look to have been there for many
years, only a few of which are relatively new and adequately maintained. It was
a bit creepy driving through the area not knowing if the road was open to the
public or not (signs seemed to indicate not, but it was unclear), and whether I
might be confronted by a resident. I managed to find the series of roads I had
gleaned from the satellite view, all paved, the last of which takes one several
miles up the mountain, nearly to the top and incredibly steep. A sign
indicates the area is some sort of park and/or conservancy. Later I learned this
is the primary entrance to this park called Ritter Ranch, but nowhere below are
there any signs indicating this. Either the locals have removed any such signs
or it is a closely kept secret. A well-maintained
dirt road leads along the crest of the mountain to the
Hauser Microwave Station, and further west to the
highpoint at the Odell benchmark. Leaving this for later, I continued down the
road off the north side and on up
to McDill where I managed to get the
van within about 30 yards of
the summit shortly after 1p.
The whole area is decidedly ho-hum. There is sparse vegetation on the
5,000-foot summits of McDill and Sierra Pelona and what little there was had
burned off only a few years earlier. Not much had regrown and
cattle were busy removing even that.
At midday the
desert vistas were hazy at best. It was
rather warm even at this high elevation, and very, very dry. Like many HPS
registers, the one at McDill's summit dated back only a few years. A more
recent entry by highpointers Carey & Hanna expressed a dissatisfaction with
the HPS peak, offering the
Sierra Pelona HP
as a more suitable alternative. I
didn't think either one was very impressive. I drove back over the road I had
come on, stopping at the west end of the HP ridge in order to visit
the summit and
benchmark. There was
a register that
dated back less than
a year. Oddly,
Mark Adrian had been to this point four days earlier than
his visit to McDill. Why he didn't visit them both on the same day is unclear,
but I've done similarly myself plenty of times.
Noting that it was still early in the afternoon, I decided to hit up another
LPC summit, Mendenhall Peak in the San Gabriels, not too far from where I was.
I drove back down to SR14, heading towards Santa Clarita and exiting at Sand
Canyon Rd. After refueling at the freeway exit's In-N-Out, I continued
south on Sand Canyon Rd and into the San Gabriels. The road took me up over
Bear Divide where it then
becomes Little Tujunga Rd which eventually tops out at
Dillon Divide where I
parked. It was 3:30p when I started off on the modest hike, about four miles
one-way with 2,000ft of gain.
Sometimes open to vehicle traffic, the dirt Mendenhall Ridge Rd that starts
at Dillon Divide was gated shut.
It was not clear if the road and surrounding
area were still closed due to the 2009 Station Fire, but I saw no signs
indicating a closure. Later I would find that this area was just west of the
area still closed, and thus legally accessible. I started up the Mendenhall Rd,
which winds around to the north side to begin its long traverse
along the ridge that eventually meets up with Mt. Gleason many miles to the
east. The hiking is not all that pleasant with the sun beating down, little
shade and some annoying flies, but such is hiking in the lower elevations of
the San Gabriels in late June. There were some
colorful flowers in
bloom along the way and a few
roadside pines to add some interest. To
the the north rose another
high ridgeline going from Bear Divide to Mt.
Gleason, the highpoint being tower-topped
Magic Mountain, not to be
confused with the amusement park
in nearby Santa Clarita that goes by the same name. In between dropped Pacoima
Canyon, some 2,000ft lower to the creek at the bottom.
It took an hour to hike the three miles to Highline Saddle west of
Mendenhall, marked by a transmission tower and a
view south into
Little Tujunga Canyon. From the saddle
one can either follow the road as it continues around the north and east sides
of the peak before winding its way to the summit, or the more direct route up
the
West Ridge
along an old firebreak which was the route I took. There was
some
fire damage to be found on the north-facing slopes before reaching
Mendenhall, but the abundance of flowers that the fire seems to have brought
out was ample compensation for the loss of brush. It seemed clear that the
landscape was used to fires and would have no trouble recovering in time,
despite all the dire concerns that people have expressed.
I found a red register can near the
concrete foundation
of the lookout that
once stood at the summit. The highpoint was about 100 yards further north and
I took a few minutes to visit it before returning to the concrete platform. Haze
and/or smog marred the views
south and
west
to no great surprise. LA Basin views
are usually best in the early morning hours or after a rainstorm. I tried to
identify another LPC peak, Mt. McKinley some three miles
further east that I
had initially hoped to do with Mendenhall. Given the late afternoon hour (about
5:15p) and my degree of tiredness, I decided I'd had enough for the day. It
didn't help that I misidentified the higher Iron Mtn for McKinley, the former
some two miles further east. I would save it for another day and approach it
from the south.
I was back at Dillon Saddle
shortly after 6:30p. The gallon jug of water sitting
on the dash had warmed to a fine temperature and made for a refreshing shower
there on the side of the road. I drove down to Altadena where I found a
Starbucks to hang out in for a few hours while I waited for the afternoon to
fade into evening. It was just getting dark around 9:30p when I bedded down on
a suburban street near the entrance to Las Flores Canyon, tomorrow's
destination for some additional LPC summits. I hung some towels and shirts
inside the van to block out most of the light from the streetlamps that seemed
designed to discourage such vagrancy. Such are the trials and tribulations of
urban dirtbagging...
Continued...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Mendenhall Peak
This page last updated: Fri Aug 26 10:39:13 2011
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