Wed, Apr 20, 2011
|
With: | Evan Rasmussen |
A glorious predawn sky
greeted us as we prepared to set out for Stage BM in the
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Evan and I were on the third day of our five
day venture in San Diego County chasing SDC peaks. Evan didn't really care if
they were on a list or not, he was just looking for something fun to do while
his wife was back East visiting the grandkids this week. Stage BM lies in the
middle of the small range called the Tierra Blanca Mtns just west of S-2 in the
state park. It is notable for the abundance of cholla cactus on many of its
slopes, a particularly nasty little variety that has small nodules of needles
that break off easily and tiny fishhook tips that are difficult to
extract. Chuck Ramm and Brian Browning had hiked this summit not too long ago
and had commented that the backside towards the Inner Pasture was relatively
free of cholla as compared to the direct route from the east. It was on this
recommendation that we decided to take the longer way around, first following a
dry wash canyon on the north side, then doubling back up the Northwest Slope
once we reached the Inner Pasture. Getting to the wash was not difficult, first
following a use trail out of our cul-de-sac up to the broader alluvial plain,
then easy cross-country to an
old road leading into the canyon.
The route choice was a good one. It was a fairly easy hike up the wash all the
way to the Inner Pasture without any serious impediments, basically a walk in
the park. On top of that we were shaded for much of the way which helped to keep
us cooler than we'd have otherwise been climbing the East Ridge in
the sun. Best
of all was the herd of
bighorn sheep
that we were privileged to see shortly
after starting up the canyon. It was the largest herd either of us had seen,
several dozen members comprising
ewes and kids.
They were startled when we
rounded a bend and found them foraging in the wash, half of them immediately
starting up the north side of the canyon. They gained about 200ft of
elevation and then
traversed east
over us and around
a ridgeline out of sight. The terrain
was terribly loose and the rocks showered down in profusion as they scampered
up and across, though not a one appeared to slip or go off-balance. We noted
one ewe that started a small landslide under her as she shot up out of the
canyon, several hundred-pound boulders just missing another ewe coming up behind
her. Evidently their legendary skills on rocky terrain do not extend to
courtesy shown to each other in times of stress. Once on the high ridgeline,
the first in line waited for the others to catch up before they all slowly
disappeared out of view.
We passed by an old barbed-wire fence and watched the
moon set shortly before
we exited the canyon and entered
the Inner Pasture.
Though
large and flat and
very pasture-like from a physical layout, the Inner Pasture is very dry and
covered in very coarse scrub. No cattle or horse could find this a terribly
inviting location. Evan had nothing but scorn for the place, having crossed it
on his previous visit when going between the highpoint of the Tierra Blanca
Mtns on one side to the highpoint of the
Sawtooth Mtns on the other.
His recollections of the visit were primarily unpleasant ones.
Still in the shade, we climbed upwards now on the Northwest Slopes
for half an hour before
encountering the sun as it crested the summit above us. It was
very rocky and not an unpleasant ascent at all, with few cholla and only modest
amounts of agave to watch out for. About halfway up and just ahead of me,
Evan stepped on a large
balanced rock that shifted, throwing him backwards. I watched in sudden horror
as he tumbled onto his back and started falling into the only large cholla
that was to be found on our path to the summit. In a split second he managed to
arrest his fall and stop with his face only inches from the evil needles. I
moved around the cactus to help him up. It was the worst tumble he could
remember taking but luckily seemed to come out with only
minor injuries. Some
of the cholla nodules had stuck to his pants and he had some trouble extracting
these as they got transfered to his
gloved hand and fingers, and some
time was spent
removing
the tiny, pesky needles from his knee and shin. We both
commented that it certainly could have been a lot worse. After this short
diversion, we were only another twenty minutes in reaching
the summit with no further incidents to delay us.
The top is large and flat and not all that summit-like. In the middle of this
we found the usual collection of items: a cairn with a register,
a benchmark,
and the wooden remains of an old survey tower. The register dated
to 1984,
placed by Wes Shelberg. The first four pages are almost exclusively filled with
Wes's signature, having climbed the peak nearly a dozen times. It must have
been one of his favorites as there was a one-page
memorial left in 2003, a year
after his death at the age of 83. It mentions that he spent his career working
for the US Navy in chemical warfare testing while spending his free time
supporting the Sierra Club and other environmental causes - a strange
juxtapostion indeed.
It was just after 8a and the desert air was still clear before the usual haze
develops with the heat and wind that the day brings. There is a fine view of
both north and south halves of the Inner Pasture to the
northwest and
southwest, respectively. To the
west is the Sawtooth Mtns that effectively split the Inner
Pasture with the higher Laguna Mtns in the background. To the
north rises Granite Mtn with Whale Peak and the Vallecito Mtns to the
northeast. To the
east lie the plains of the Carrizo Valley
and the Carrizo Badlands. To the
south
rise the convoluted ridges of the In-Ko-Pah and Jacumba Mtns.
Despite his earlier encounter with the cholla, Evan chose to lead us off the
East Ridge that we had been warned contained a large number of these villains.
We strode over the slightly lower NE summit on our way down the zigzagging
ridgeline, descending sections of large boulders and the
booby-trapped
cholla gardens. We
followed this
all the way out to
the mouth of the canyon, not far from
our vehicles parked near S-2.
We spent about an hour and half on the descent,
four hours in all. This marked the end of our desert excursions as we headed for
the higher elevations of the Laguna Mtns.
We drove north again on S-2, west on SR78 to Julian where we stopped to make
belated phone calls to our wives,
then south on the Sunrise Hwy (S-1). It took
some time to pick the best starting point for Oriflamme and Roost, our next
two peaks. I had not collected any internet beta on these obscurities
and the lack of adequate preparation resulted in much extra driving as we drove
first one way, then back again, then back the original direction before settling
on what looked like the shortest route to Oriflamme Mtn. The topo map shows a
closer dirt road starting from a higher elevation further south, but our
scouting for it turned up nothing and we concluded it had been returned to
nature through disuse.
Oriflamme Canyon is a modestly popular hiking, biking and riding route down to
the desert floor to the east. The canyon descends in a northerly direction
initially, eventually curving around to the northeast and finally emptying
into Mason Valley nearly 5,000ft lower. Oriflamme Mtn
is a long ridgeline on the east side of
Oriflamme Canyon, connecting to S-1 at the southern end. Roost BM is at the far
northern end of Oriflamme Mtn, marking the point where Oriflamme canyon turns
from north to northeast. Along the western edge of Oriflamme Canyon, just
below S-1 runs the Pacific Crest Trail.
Our route would traverse Oriflamme
Canyon west to east, crossing the Pacific Crest Trail and the main trail
descending the canyon's center. Because the distance was about five miles one
way, Evan decided to use his mountain bike rather than hike. While he took some
time to eat lunch in his camper, I set out alone just after noon,
expecting him to catch up shortly. The
dirt road was in decent shape,
clear of brush and with only modest erosion. I crossed a
small creek
just before reaching
the PCT junction where I saw the only other
hikers in the area during the outing. Fire had swept through here in
2003, taking out most of the trees and the decimating the
mature brush. But as usual, nature is quick to recover and already
new growth has reclaimed most of the land. I followed
the road down to the low point in the canyon, then followed another road up as
it passes within a quarter mile or so of Oriflamme's summit. I
left the road and headed cross-country up the west slopes, reaching
the highpoint about 45 minutes after starting out.
There was a set of nested red cans found in the summit rocks. It
dated only
to 2007, placed by Gabriel Rau, a notable member of the
Angeles Chapter's
Lower Peaks Committee. There was an entry in 2008 and the last one in 2010 by
Avery Wear, who I'd climbed with on the Sierra Challenge in years past. This
summit had once been on the
SDC list but had been long delisted, resulting in some
neglect. The views were grand, particularly east to
Mason Valley and
south to
the higher summits of the Laguna Mtns. The hillsides were all very green with
the help of spring rains and the higher elevations. Flowers were in bloom in
shades of white,
yellow, and
purple. Even some of
the yucca were beginning
an early bloom. As I returned to the road via the same western slopes off
Oriflamme, I expected to see Evan pop up at any moment but all was still except
for the breeze.
Back on the road I continued north
for more than a mile until it gave out in
a high, dry pasture area. The roads depicted on the topo approximately matched
what I found on the ground, but there were several key sections that I found
missing that would not allow me an easier approach to Roost BM. The 4WD trail
depicted on
the ridgeline
did not exist (nor did I see evidence that it once
did) and I found myself doing some moderate bushwhacking along it, slowing
considerably. It was 2p before I had reached the final
pile of rock
that comprises Roost and reached its smallish summit. No register was found here
despite a thorough search, but there were a
benchmark and
the remains of a survey tower that I spent a few minutes
refurbishing. As an SDC peak I was expecting to find a
register of some kind, so this was a mild disappointment. The views were similar
to those on Oriflamme, with the exception of a superior vantage to the north for
Granite Mtn and
Chariot Mtn (another delisted SDC peak).
I swept
the ridgeline
I had taken to reach the summit but still found no sign of Evan or his bike.
I found a better return route that utilized an old road found lower on the west
side of the ridge. The area is still used for grazing cattle as evidenced by
watering troughs
and some fencing that is still kept in a relative state of repair.
In following the road down towards
Oriflamme Creek,
I noticed there was a single
set of fresh bike tracks that I guessed were likely Evan's though I'd still
not spotted him. I wondered if he'd gotten lost in finding the peaks and given
up on them. I'd given him the map beforehand since I already had the summit
waypoints loaded in my GPSr, so I couldn't understand how he could get lost
or confused.
On my way back up from Oriflamme Creek I initially followed an older, less-used
road that made for a shortcut back to the start. Where the road started another
switchback heading south, I decided the brush in the area wasn't too
egregious and headed off cross-country on a more direct line back to the start.
This went on for about a third of a mile, hiking steeply up
a drainage that first
crossed the PCT before emerging onto
the original
dirt road I'd started down from S-1. A few minutes later
I
was back at the vehicles, Evan's bike
strapped to the back of the camper in the same position that it had been when
I'd left. Did he even leave the camper, I wondered?
Seems Evan had in fact gone out on his bike, but failed in reaching the peaks because he didn't feel like doing the cross-country parts. If you don't have an obsession with reaching the summit, your outings can be far more flexible. Since this was a foreign concept to me, it didn't occur to me that he might simply choose not to head for the top.
It was after 3:30p now, but the next TH was but a short distance away, and
before 4p we had parked at the Pioneer Mail picnic area
and
started on our way.
We were headed for Pine Mtn, another SDC peak, this one an embarassingly
short distance of about a mile from the trailhead. Though there is no trail or
road going over the summit, a dirt road does get one close as it circles around
the summit area on the east, north and west sides. We found a
maintained trail
on the east side that traversed up and across the East Slope, but it soon became
obvious it wasn't heading for the summit. We
bushwhacked
our way through a
short, mild section of brush before finding more open grass slopes the rest
of the way to the summit.
Not surprisingly, given the peak's name, the summit is covered in pine trees
and one of the few places in the area to avoid the deadly fires of 2007. This
renders the rather flat summit
devoid of any views and our search for something
resembling a highpoint a bust. We looked under logs and in tree nooks for signs
of a summit register, but came up empty. There is also a second, broader summit
to the west that shows the same number of contours on the map, but because of
the proliferation of trees, it was impossible to sight the other summit and
would be impossible to tell which was higher. Because the map shows the peak
label on the east summit, I decided that was good enough. Evan of course, cared
little. We found the dirt road between the two summits and followed this back
for a slightly longer, but entirely brush-free route back to
the start. Back
just after 5p, we were gone a little more than an hour.
And just when you think you've tackled the easiest peak on the SDC list, a
short distance further south is one that's twice as easy, Wooded Hill.
Everything about the peak is easy, including the name.
The topo map shows a Nature Trail
going around the base of the summit, but in fact
the trail goes to the
top in a series of switchbacks that defy explanation other than the person in
charge had a whole team at their disposal and
couldn't let them go before their 8hrs of court-ordered community service
had elapsed. The summit rises barely
200ft from the trailhead and like Pine Mtn, is covered with trees. To its
credit, the summit has some large
summit blocks
that at least offer a bit of
class 2 scrambling, perhaps class 3 for those under 10yrs of age. We climbed
three of these just to make sure all bases were covered. Just south of
the highpoint is a
steel pole with an ammo box bolted to it in way of
a register. We checked it out, but didn't bother to peruse or sign it. Much like
the Mt. Whitney register, it's popularity seemed to negate its attractiveness.
There was still one more SDC peak left in the area, one of the trickier ones
on the list, Manza BM. It was now almost 6p and there was less than two hours
of daylight left. The trailhead
was luckily only a few minutes further down the
road. Also fortuitous was that the distance to the summit was less than two
miles, but half of this was cross-country through an area with extremely
heavy brush. Others had reported spending hours toiling to gain half a mile on
this peak and it would have been impossible to get done before dark under
ordinary circumstances. To my advantage I was armed with beta as to how to find
a use trail that was cut through the brush starting off the aptly named
Sunset Trail. Evan was through for the day, so just after 6p I set off alone
from S-1, following the start of the
Sunset Trail.
I knew that time was of the essence lest I get caught out in a bushwhacking
quagmire in the dark. Where the trail has several forks I kept left, going
over a small rise before dropping down the other side. Keeping an eye on the
GPSr, I started looking for flagging when I was just north of due east from
Manza's summit. Unfortunately there was no flagging along the trail and I ended
up scouting further north than necessary. To the left of where the trail turns
north is a shallow drainage in the woods that drops to the southwest. I
followed this drainage through the tall grass in the forest understory, thinking
it was probably the best bet to find the use trail. Where the shallow part
of the drainage ends and begins to drop more steeply off to the southwest, I
found the first
of many orange flags that I'd been looking for. I was probably about
a hundred and fifty yards from the trail at this point. The use trail went
immediately through the
dense brush
dropping to the deeper drainage between the
Sunset Trail and Manza, but it appears to have been groomed relatively
recently. There were a few downed trees in sections that made for a limbo maze
exercise, but for the most part it was fairly clear and quick going. It was
difficult to get lost for most of it. Only at the bottom of the drainage did I
find a lack of flags or ducks or otherwise obvious trail, and I spent a few
minutes in here making sure I was on the right track before proceeding. Finding
the trail starting up to Manza, I followed it initially along an old barbed-wire
fence, then
crossed
to the other side and continued up steep slopes through
forest before emerging back into chaparral near the summit ridge. The brush was
generally well over head level, but the trail was well-marked and easy to
follow for the quarter mile stretch north along
the summit ridgeline, up and
over several intermediate bumps. Often the trail would go over large boulders
or slabs along the ridge, likely chosen to save stretches of hard chopping
through the brush when creating the trail. It was almost 7p before I finally
emerged on the
highest block
marking the summit. It conveniently provided a
high point above the brush, affording
views in all directions. The
views
themselves weren't all that impressive - they were composed of rolling hills
covered in forest of chaparral in all directions, none of it very dramatic. But
I had to admit that
the folks who had created and maintained the use
trail had made it one of the most impressive ones I've ever been on.
There was a benchmark with a register located nearby. The register
dated
to 1991.
It had a surprising number of entries considering the obscurity of the
peak. I stayed at the summit less than a minute. The sun would set soon and it
was already growning chilly. I beat a hasty retreat, wanting to at least get
back to the Sunset Trail before darkness overtook me. The return went faster
thanks to the familiarity I now had with the use trail and I managed to get
back on
the Sunset Trail just after
sunset, appropriately.
The sky was alight
with shades of orange reflecting off thin, high clouds. At the highpoint of
the trail I got a last view of
Manza BM
with the sun having set behind it - a
much better picture than the drab green it portrays in
the daytime. To the southwest
coastal clouds
had moved in more than 50 miles from the ocean and
began pushing up against the mountains only a few miles to the west of me.
Tomorrow's agenda was looking like it was going to include overcast. I got
back to
the TH
by 7:40p. Evan had left a note on my van directing me to a
nearby location in the National Forest where he had found a secluded spot for
us to spend the night. Having finished four days' worth of peakbagging in three
days, we would spend some time over dinner making plans for additional peaks for
the next day. Luckily I had come prepared with a host of options and we were
not lacking in further choices.
Continued...
For more information see these SummitPost pages: Stage BM
This page last updated: Sat Dec 21 20:04:41 2019
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