The day after I'd dropped Jackie off at school I was in a bit of a funk, feeling
like I'd lost my summer climbing buddy and didn't quite know what to do with
myself. I let those emotions stew for the day, without doing anything in
particular that was productive, then decided on something for the next day. I
headed up to Point Reyes National Seashore to tag a handful of minor summits I'd
neglected in the past. This part of the state would be cool since it was near
the coast, while other parts of the state I considered had much warmer temps.
Though the distance isn't all that much, the driving takes more than two hours
thanks to the windy nature of the backroads in Marin County. I didn't leave
particularly early in the morning since it was a Saturday without rush hour,
consequently it was well after 9a before I was ready for the first hike.
Stewart Point
This named point has little prominence and sits at the far southern end of the
park, above the sleepy ocean town of Bolinas. Mesa Rd is paved nearly to the
start of the Ridge Trail, the last 100yds on good gravel. Just to the west of
the road is a large US Coast Guard installation with dozens of
antennae, almost all different, perhaps some sort of antenna testing site. Mesa
Rd continues another mile or so to a trailhead for a cool trail that goes to
the Alamere Falls - I'll have to do that hike some day. The road is signed for
No Parking on one side, but not so the other. I parked in front of the
barely-noticeable Ridge Trail
that starts up from the road. The trail is nicely maintained by
weedwhacker to keep off offending encroachment. With a pervasive fog
environment, the area is quite lush with temperate rainforest conditions in many
places. After about 3/4mi, the trail takes a turn to the northwest, and it is
here that an unsigned use trail forks to the southeast. The use trail
passes through an open gate and runs along a slightly descending
ridgeline, some open areas, some forest. As one nears
Stewart Point, an old barbed-wire fence can be seen on the left, in poor
condition with many breaches. On the other side of the fence is
a good dirt road and private property that appears to belong to a
hunting club of some sort, though at the time I thought it was part of the USCG
installation. There are two points vying for the highpoint of Stewart Point. The
one to the southeast is lower by 5-10ft, the higher one to
the northwest has an old telecom installation. There are several high
perches, about 30ft off the ground atop telephone poles. These appear
to be used as blinds for deer hunting. I climbed one of these for
the sport of it, descending just in time as an ATV was coming down the road. I
considered ducking into the thorny brush but my blue shirt would have been easy
to spot. So I walked out to the road and waited for the ATV to drive by. An
elderly gentleman with a stern face came driving up to a stop, dragging a pine
branch behind him (later I figured this was to "reset" the deer tracks on the
dirt road). He was rather upset to find me, wondering why I didn't pay attention
to the No Trespassing signs at the start of the road. I explained that I hadn't
come up that way, but through the dilapidated fence where there are no signs.
He lightened up after that, realizing I might not have known it was private
property. I apologized and left back through one of the gaps in the
fence. Fog prevented any views from this one, but they probably wouldn't have
been so good anyway due to trees.
Firtop
I drove back out through Bolinas, then north on SR1 to Five Brooks. The
Five Brooks Ranch is located here, a popular place to rent horses,
along with the Five Brooks Trailhead, popular with
equestrians, less so with hikers and mountain bikers. I followed a
route I'd grabbed from PB, going up the Greenpicker Trail and down the Stewart
Trail. The former is a dusty single-track, the other a less dusty
fire road. Both climb up through forested slopes to the high
ridge above the San Andreas Rift Zone. As others have pointed out,
the summit is flat, forested, covered in a thorny understory and
a disappointment. I thrashed about in the brush to pay my dues, but
there's really no need to do so. The Park Service has a nice sign at
the trail junction nearby that calls it out as Firtop. I jogged most of the
Stewart Trail back down to the TH, walking the flatter spots. Unlike
the Greenpicker Trail there are some
views through the trees, but these are weak at best, even without the fog.
Point Reyes
Point Reyes is the spit of land that sticks out into the Pacific Ocean,
further west than the largest of the Farallon Islands. There is a lighthouse
located at the very tip with the 562-foot highpoint found a short distance to
the east. The road to reach it from Tomales Bay is long and windy with crappy
pavement for the last several miles. The road has numerous junctions to the
various public beaches that can be accessed from it, but most of the land is
locked up in the various "historical" ranches that
still operate here. The beaches and bluffs are impressive,
though, and a fine sight if one is treated
to an unusual sunny day. The fog and wind are pervasive here, today being no
different. At least it wasn't raining, and there were some limited views to the
ocean below. There were a dozen park signs warning that the lighthouse is
closed, reason not given. Upon reaching the end, one finds it
is undergoing renovation, fenced off
at the parking lot. Unfortunately, the
highpoint is within the closed area, but it doesn't seem that too many people
pay much attention. After watching numerous other folks pass through the gate
to walk the road to the lighthouse, I followed suit, but only as far as the
highpoint. There was a benchmark and weak views, so I didn't stay more than a
few seconds to take some crappy pictures before returning.
Tomales Bay BM / Peak 545ft
Both of these unnamed summits are found along Tomales Point, the spit of land
running northwest between the Pacific Ocean and Tomales Bay. Another long drive
leads to the Pierce Point Ranch at the end of the road. Tomales Bay BM is found
about a mile before reaching the end of the road, just to the northeast. I
parked at the edge of the road, careful to move off the pavement, then made a
short cross-country hike up the low hill to the summit. The vegetation
is low, wind-swept stuff, easy to walk through. A 3-foot high
concrete pillar holds a USGS VABM. The fog blowing in from
the west dissipated before reaching this hill,
leaving views of Tomales Bay to the east, but blocking those to the ocean. Peak
540ft is found about half way between the Tomales Point TH and
Tomales Point at the very tip of the peninsula. Starting from the Pierce Point
Ranch, the hike is about 4.5mi one-way. The fog here was more persistent,
leaving the trail windy and cold. This didn't seem to dissuade too many of
the folks that come here to either hike the trail to Tomales Point or
take another, shorter trail to McClures Beach. This spit of land is
home to a good-sized herd of tule elk that were reintroduced back in 1978 after
being obliterated in the late 1800s. These can be seen easily
from the trail, grouped in smaller numbers
during the rutting season when males gather their harems for exclusive mating
privileges. I first visited a delisted LoJ summit, Peak 540ft, whose
highpoint is found in a collection of rocks on the west side
of the trail. Lidar data has shown Peak 5,45ft, just off the trail
near the BM labeled with a 535-foot elevation, about 1/3mi further north than
Peak 540ft. I visited both places, finding the benchmark, a
lone elk, some rocks, lots of fog and called it good. Maybe
I'd come back in sunnier conditions for
the full walk out to end of the trail. On my way back I toured the
Pierce Point Ranch, with helpful signs
describing the various buildings and their uses back
in the day before it was purchased by the Park Service. It
was 4p by the time I finished up, with another 2.5hrs of driving to get me home.Not a lot of hiking today, but fairly scenic country and it did wonders to help
me get out of my funk...