Thu, Oct 23, 2014
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Etymology |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 3 | GPXs: 1 2 | Profiles: 1 2 |
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Blackrock Mountain later climbed Mon, Nov 7, 2016 |
I was parked off the Monache Jeep Trail
about a mile from the pavement, having
spent the night comfortably sleeping in my van. I was there to do a hike into
Monache Meadows to climb Monache Mtn, a P1K overlooking the meadows. With a
sturdy 4WD vehicle and sufficiently high clearance one can drive to the foot
of the mountain in this part of the Southern Sierra just south of the Golden
Trout Wilderness and west of the South Sierra Wilderness. At one time the only
way to reach the area was on foot, by packtrain or in a light airplane. It
appears that aircraft no longer land on the airstrip at the north end of the
meadow now that the Monache Jeep Trail has made it accessible by overland
vehicles. In late summer and fall the area becomes very popular with the OHV
folks who come here to hunt, drink, relax, and explore, sometimes all at the
same time. The area is also used extensively to graze cattle. These are mostly
gone by fall but their feces litter the vast meadows and much of the surrounding
forest.
It was dark at 6a when I awoke to start my day. I turned the engine on to warm
up the inside before getting out of my cozy sleeping bag to dress and eat
breakfast. It was 41F outside when I started just after 6:30a, not really that
cold for late Oct in the Sierra at 8,000ft. The worst part of the Monache Trail
is about 1/3mi from where I'd parked, a somewhat steep section of maybe 100ft
with large boulders and inches of dust and dirt dug up from the various
vehicles struggling on this part of the road. Beyond this the road grows more
tame, eventually coming out to the meadows where a bridge crosses
Snake Creek. It took me about 40min to reach this point just as the
sun was rising over the
meadows to the east. The road continues east and then north over a saddle on
Summers Ridge. I didn't realize this until after I had already done some minor
bushwhacking and cross-country travel up Summers Ridge, eventually spying the
road and returning to it. At the saddle where the road drops down into
Round Mountain Stringer (a creek drainage and meadow between Summers Ridge and
Monache Mtn), I left the road to make the easy excursion cross-country for a
bonus peak,
the highpoint of Summers Ridge, a non-descript collection
of rocks found at the flattish summit with no views to speak of. It did offer
some partial views of
Monache Mtn and the SE Slope I would be
ascending, reassuring me that there was no serious brush to contend with.
I dropped off Summers Ridge in a direct line for Monache Mtn, just across the
meadow found between the two. A pair of hunters
had just gotten out of their
truck and started across the meadow, rifles in hand. They had their back to me
as I made my way across, downstream about 100yds, imagining myself a deer and
wondering if I'd get across and into the safety of the woods before being
spotted. They seemed engaged in conversation and not really looking around. I
don't think they knew I was there. As hoped, the
cross-country travel
up Monache wasn't bad. There was some brush, but it could be avoided by careful
choice of route. It was after 9a by the time I had topped out. The highpoint
seems to be in a small thicket of brush but someone had piled a
large cairn just outside it. Next to this were
the remains
of a glass jar that probably served as a register at one time. Though it sports
more than 1,000ft of prominence, the views were minimal due to the surrounding
trees. It appears someone had done some practice cutting near the summit,
chopping a bunch of
smallish trees, leaving them on the ground where
they fell. It wasn't clear that there was any purpose to the cutting other than
to watch the trees fall. People are funny that way.
It was still quite early in the morning and it seemed I would have plenty of time to extend my excursion to Brown Mtn, just under four miles further north. It would make the day well over 20mi, but what else was I going to do with the day? Brown is just under 10,000ft and just under a P1K, one of those "almost" summits. Since I've been tackling everything over 900ft of prominence it had been on my radar and seemed a worthy objective, plus it would give me a chance to explore a greater part of the Monache Meadows area. Descending the north side of Monache Mtn is a breeze with almost no brush and a modest but uniform forest cover. This is the route Jenkins describes in her book, Exploring the Southern Sierra in two volumes, the most authoritative source for this vast region (if you are considering buying them, make sure they include the large fold out maps in the sleeve of the back covers - without them, the books are of considerably less help, imo).
Near the bottom of Monache Mtn I could see a collection of buildings through
the woods to the west. The topo map has this as the Monache Ranger Station but
I didn't cross the gap to investigate. Instead I came out on
the meadow with a
few lines of barbed-wire fences between me and where I wanted to go. I
eventually found my way around or over these, then across
Soda Creek where I
picked up a dirt road. At this time of year travel across the extensive meadows
is fairly easy with the ground mostly dry except for the areas immediately
around the trickling creeks. In Spring and Summer these meadows are probably
not only a lush green but a swampy mess as well. I was happy not to have to
take my boots off the entire day though I criss-crossed the meadows a great
deal. I followed the road heading north past
a junction
to the
South Fork of the Kern River.
Little more than a creek now, it was not difficult to find a
well-placed rock to help me across. Having left the road again, I was now
heading cross-country upslope towards Brown Mtn, still two miles distance. Most
of this was pretty tame up until the last half mile where I had 1,000ft of gain
up steep slopes, sometimes a bit brushy on the
south-facing slope.
I found my way to the top by 11:30a, this time with good, open views, at least
in two directions. To
the northwest rose the higher Kern Peak while
to
the south was spread out a panoramic view of Monache Meadows.
Through the trees one can just see Olancha Peak to
the east. I found
no register or benchmark at the rocky outcrop that forms the highpoint, just a
few ancient,
rusting tins left from someone's lunch.
Jenkins describes a route to Brown from the east starting from a saddle on the
Strawberry Trail and it was in this direction that I decided to descend. As on
Monache Mtn, it was a better route with little brush and easier travel. The
only downside was that the route isn't very direct and requires some extra
mileage compared to the straight shot I took between Monache and Brown Mtns.
The Strawberry Trail
(connecting Strawberry Meadow to the north with Monache
Meadows to the south) is not well-traveled and not very clearly defined. Pine
needles cover much of the trail but the slightly sunken tread makes it not too
hard follow (plus it basically just follows the drainage down from the saddle).
The trail eventually veers southeast to
Olivas Cow Camp.
A building and environs
are signed for the USFS, locked up for the season (or possibly
semi-permanently). The corral seems to be in poor shape and I don't imagine the
place gets much use anymore. Somewhere the trail continues SE past this
building but it doesn't really go in the direction I wanted. I could see Monache
Meadow past the corral and Monache Mtn beyond where I needed to return, so I
set off cross-country once more, this time over easy meadow terrain. My route
took me past a set of 5 or 6 green cabins that were once the
Monache Meadow Lodge.
After a series of private owners, it was bought in the 1990s by the
Trust for Public Land, to hold until the Forest Service could buy it. These,
too, were locked up in suspended animation until someone could figure out what
to do with them. Walking into the meadow beyond the cabins I found a great deal
of spent shells, broken clay pigeons and iron works set up for
target practice.
The place seems to have a long history of folks shooting off the back porch
while waiting for the steaks on the BBQ to be ready.
In my walk across Monache Meadow I came upon more fencing to skirt around,
eventually landing on a road near the unused airstrip (this is not a
paved runway, but rather just a large flat area of hard ground, not exactly the
stuff that makes for a smooth landing). Through
a gate, past
a junction or two, another crossing of the
South Fork Kern River,
more meadow and finally the
edge of the forest on the east side of Monache Mtn. There were a
few vehicles
parked in the forest at open campsites. One of these was occupied by two
gentlemen I visited briefly. They had several vehicles, cots, coolers, BBQ and
a host of other camping amenities to make life comfortable. There was a rather
large pile of empty beer cans and bottles in the middle, a nearly empty 1.75L
bottle of whiskey sitting on a stump nearby.
"Looks like you guys are here for the
long haul," I offered. Turns out they had only been there three days. They had
two companions out on a hike, but even with four of them the amount of alcohol
consumed seemed staggering. They were very polite and asked if they could offer
me anything but I declined. Only after I had left did it occur to me that they
probably had more cold beer on ice and that it would have been a mighty fine
treat just then. Sometimes I can be very stupid.
They gave me directions to finding the Monache Jeep Trail through the woods and
I was soon back on it. I had another hour and a half of hiking to get back to
the van but was hoping I might get lucky and catch a ride with someone on their
way out. I did have several vehicles pass me in the
opposite direction but
unfortunately none heading my way. Even so, it was only 3p by the time
I returned.
It seemed a bit too early to call it a day with more than three hours
of daylight remaining, but having walked some 22mi I was also getting tired. I
decided to drive out to the Blackrock TH about 10mi away to make the short
climb to Blackrock Mtn.
Continued...
This page last updated: Thu Oct 30 11:15:18 2014
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