Sat, Apr 7, 2012
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Etymology Tar Peak Roundtop Garza Peak |
Story | Photos / Slideshow | Maps: 1 2 | GPX | Profile |
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Parking just across the highway from a gated
dirt road, I waited for a break in
the light traffic to hop the fence and begin hiking westward along the ranch
road heading across the plain. I felt uncomfortably vulnerable for the first
fifteen minutes or so that I was clearly visible to passing cars and trucks. I
kept waiting to see a car stop and someone jump out to yell to me, but luckily
they all kept driving right on by.
Reef Ridge was to the left, or south, across the Kettleman Plain. The closest,
Flattop, was
easy to pick out with the relay towers atop its summit. Directly ahead of me was
the more interesting-looking summit,
Tar Peak,
with a pointy top. The Kettleman
Plain is fenced off in large sections used for grazing cattle. This part of the
range is one of the driest areas of all the Coast Ranges, but even here had seen
the benefits of recent rains as the grasses sprung to life and gave the hills
a soft green shade. Two miles in I came across a large
herd of cattle gathered
on the south side of the fence that follows the road I traveled. All of the
cattle looked curiously at me, some of them advancing towards the fence, perhaps
hoping for a tasty handout to supplement the meager grass they were feeding on.
Finding no hoped-for response from me, some of them began lowing in apparent
disappointment. Portions of the herd followed along in the direction I hiked
hoping by chance that I might change my mind, but I gave them no encouragment
and eventually they gave up all expectations.
I was watching the scenery around me, paying little attention to the decently
graded road when I was suddenly stopped by the unmistakable sound of a
rattlesnake
going on the defensive. He had been sunning himself on the road
when my approach caused him alarm. I was only two steps from squashing him
when I was abruptly halted in my tracks. I took a few pictures of it and tried
to shoo it off the road - I didn't want to be surprised by it later when I
would be returning in the dark. It refused to budge. I tossed a few dirt clods
at it to get it moving, initially having no success. The snake seemed confused
by the projectiles, probably the first time it had been subjected to an air
strike when the biggest threat it had faced so far was getting
stepped on by a cow. Eventually a few direct hits convinced the snake to get out
of the way, but it left only reluctantly.
After a couple of miles the ranch road turns from due west to northwest and
continues in that direction for several more miles. There is another road about
a mile north of the one that I took that cuts about half a mile off this four
mile stretch of road, but that road passes by an occupied home about 3/4 mile
in which I wanted to avoid. The road I traveled ends where it abuts the Tar
Canyon Rd. Here I turned left. Big Tar Canyon cuts through Reef Ridge between
Tar Peak and
Flattop.
The good dirt road follows along the west side of the
creek, now mostly dry. I met a second herd of cattle here, though these didn't
find me nearly so interesting and took off as I approached. As one passes
between Flattop and Tar Peak it is easy to see that Reef Ridge owes its nature
to a near-vertical
tilted strata that forms the rocky spine of the
ridge. Particularly on the
Flattop side, the hard layers of rock stand
out much like a rock wall, the softer material on either side having eroded much
more over the eons, but far less than the surrounding plains.
It was 5:40p when I reached a gated road on the right side of Tar
Canyon. I hopped this gate and followed the
winding road upwards as it
heads to the
western crest of Reef Ridge. Hiking up the road I had an
excellent view of the
southwest side
of Flattop and picked out a route to climb it, taking advantage
of a little-used road that follows along a set of power poles leading to the
summit from that side. I would remember this upon my return after visiting the
other peaks first. Rising higher, I could see the town of Avenal
through the gap
in Reef Ridge created by the Big Tar Canyon. The prison, too, could be seen
a few miles to the south with a large array of solar panels nearly the size of
the town found just across the highway from the prison.
The road passes under the southwest side of Tar Peak's summit, and where
the road reaches the crest it was easy enough to follow a thin use trail about
100 yards east to the highpoint. The summit is a small collection of
rocky outcrops, the highest sticking up only a few feet more than the others.
There is a fine view overlooking the Kettleman Plain to the
north and
east. Looking
west into the sun could be seen the nearby
summits of
Roundtop and Garza Peak, to which
I headed next. To no surprise, there was no register or benchmark found on Tar
Peak.
With about an hour before sunset I headed west off the peak, rejoined the
dirt road and continued about 2/3 mile to Roundtop. Like the previous peak, the
road bypasses the summit on its way to Garza Peak, requiring some easy
cross-country to climb the rounded knob to the scrub-covered
summit. There is a good view of
Tar Peak to the east from the
summit. To the south can be seen
Garza Peak looking very unpeak-like,
though I doubt if there's any angle from which the peak looks very good at all.
It seems to simply lie at a highpoint along the long ridgeline. It took another
20 minutes to return to the road and hike the remaining distance to Garza. Here
the road goes within about 10 yards of the summit, making the diversion to
reach the top very short. There was the expected
benchmark at the top, but no
register (and none on any of the summits I visited this evening). About five
miles to the
southwest could be seen the similarly unimpressive
Table Mtn, the
highpoint of Kings County, the only other peak I had been to in this area until
recently. The view
west
was blinded by the soon-to-be setting sun, but one could
see the silhouette of Black Mtn, the highest peak around with more than 1,800
feet of prominence. Though only about 6 miles distance from Garza, reaching it
looked to be a very difficult effort from this side of the range due to the
lack of connecting roads for several miles. Halfway to Black Mtn is another
named summit, Zwang Peak, that I had originally planned to forgo. My plan had
called for me to return after Garza (already 10 miles from the start) and
then drive south on SR41 to two other nearby CC peaks. But now that I was at
Garza I decided to change the plan and do Zwang instead, another 4 miles along
the road.
It would take another hour to go between Garza and the slightly higher Zwang,
traveling at a good clip and jogging the downhill sections. The sun would set
during this time as the temperatures dropped from slightly warm to slightly
cold, the latter much more comfortable for hiking. The terrain changes some
here as pines begin to make an appearance, although not very strongly and not
all that healthy-looking. No doubt the summer heat at 3,000ft here can be tough
on them. I passed under a pair of towering
transmission lines that connect
the grid along Interstate 5 to the power plant at Morro Bay, a distance of some
70 miles.
It was fairly dark when I reached Zwang Peak. The road bypasses the actual
summit which is covered in thick, nearly
impenetrable brush. A path had been
clipped sometime in the past to
a small clearing at the approximate summit - it
is large and flat and difficult to assess which point is highest. The views
were completely non-existent, this peak being pretty much a bust. Oddly, I found
a small
cache of water
just off the summit and the road - to what purpose I
could not well imagine. The road continues another mile and a half to the west
where it meets a saddle with
Black Mtn
before forking and starting down in two
opposite directions. I did not hike this remaining portion since it would not
reasonably help me to reach Black Mtn - I'd do that one another time from the
Parkfield side of the range.
I enjoyed the cool nighttime air as I returned back east along the crest following the same route to Big Tar Canyon. I thought a lot about the nighttime dangers which included rattlesnakes, mountain lions, and skunks, though not necessarily in that order. I pondered which of these dangers were of real concern and which were less so. Obviously an encounter with a mountain lion could prove fatal, but the odds of one hunting me down seemed remote. But as I was jogging the downhill sections I wondered if that might increase the chances of being mistaken for game. Common propaganda tells us that running can trigger a predator's chase instincts, but how realistic is that with a mountain lion? Who knows. The moon was not due to rise until after 9p, so it was fairly dark while I was pondering this issue, and it was difficult to see the trail. I pulled out my headlamp to help keep me from stumbling, but part of me was thinking this would ward of a stalking mountain lion.
I had just passed by Garza Peak and was on my way back to Roundtop when the dark orange moon began to slowly rise over the eastern horizon. By the time I was past Tar Peak and on my way down the curving road to the canyon, the moon was bright enough to see by and I put away the headlamp. Only a few minutes later my right foot would strike a rock in the road and send me sprawling head over heel into the dusty roadbed. Aside from a few scratches on my hands I was uninjured and my fall had me chuckling even while I lay on the ground. I instantly recalled the last three times this had happened, both in daylight, once on the way down from San Jacinto, another time in Venanta and most recently in the Sierra returning from Eagle Peaks. Those had been amusing falls as well. I picked myself up, dusted the debris out of my hair and off my clothes, and continued down to the gate at the road junction.
Using the route I had picked out earlier in the day, I left the road and crossed
the creek, then started up the steep embankment to the utility road. The moon
was hidden behind the hill necessitating the headlamp once again, at least until
I reached the old road and the moon was once again visible. I followed the road
up to the summit of Flattop which I reached just after 10p. The moon was still
low on the horizon, but bright white
now, and easily illuminated the utility
building
and several towers that surrounded it. The primary road leading to the
towers comes up the northeast side which fortunately corresponded to the
direction I needed to go to return to the highway. I headed down the road,
bypassing some of the sweeping turns with a more direct descent down the grassy,
cow-mowed slopes. The large herd I had encountered near the beginning were
nowhere to be seen, just the rolling terrain of the ranchlands. Beyond were the
lights of Avenal, the prison and a scattering of other lights from oil
projects and other installations. Two miles from Flattop I hopped a fence and
returned to the original dirt road I had started on. It would be 11:20p before
I
returned to the car.
Of course I still had nearly three hours of driving to return to San Jose and it would be 4a before I got to bed this morning. To keep from growing sleepy I turned the radio to Coast-to-Coast AM, a late-night hangout for fans of the paranormal, UFOs and conspiracy theories. I may need to include aliens in the list of dangers to look out for on these remote nighttime hikes...
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